Sunday, 30 October 2016

Helene Darroze at The Connaught

Roasted chicken, gourmet style

 Le Poulet du Dimanche

I am a massive fan of Helen Darroze's weekend brunch, so when it was replaced with a chicken tasting menu: Le Poulet du Dimanche, I was rather sad but excited at the same time. Judging from the sample menu, it has a mixture of dishes in the manner of classic fine dining style as well as some global influence, such as the tortilla stuffed with chicken confit leg. The meal started off with some very impressive canapes, the canape that stood out was the oyster with a grapefruit dressing, very refreshing with a hint of sweetness. 

Confit egg yolk, crispy skin and smoked bacon from Alsace,
Parmigiano-Reggiano emulsion
Chicken consommé, ravioli of Bigorre ham,
vegetables from the pot, roasted country bread
Roasted chicken stuffed with girolle and tarragon...

The chicken consommé with ravioli of Bigorre ham was an interesting dish, I especially enjoyed the dashes of armagnac which added a mild fruity and spicy tone. The main show: roasted chicken stuffed with girolle and tarragon was indeed special, the meat was so moist and the skin was just a pure sensation, it had the perfect seasoning as well as texture. The creamy chicken Scotch egg and the lightless of the courgette added balance to the plate. Every single element on the plate was done expertly. The desserts were truly special, the crème caramel was silky smooth, not overly sweet with a hint of lovely smokiness. The floating island was not overly rich and thick with a beautiful harmony of passion fruit and lemongrass.
...chicken “Scotch Egg”, boudin blanc, trombetta courgette
Corn tortilla stuffed with chicken confit leg,
Haas avocado, cucumber, coriander and mint
Floating island perfumed with passion fruit and lemongrass
Crème caramel

Overall, the chicken tasting menu was very enjoyable, the style of cooking is far from the usual. If you ask me if it was the best ever roasted chicken meal? It would be easily a yes. Helene Darroze has turned a classic humble dish into something gourmet and exquisite, it was indeed special. If I have to find fault of the meal, it would be the service, while it was solid, it was just not the same level as what it used to be, when they used to make you feel so special. The second issue was that the other chicken which was served to my friend was partly raw which was a rather big mistake from the kitchen. Price-wise it wasn't the cheapest meal but that was to be expected from a Michelin restaurant inside one of the most prestigious hotel in London. 

Food 3.5/5

Executive chef: 

Helene Darroze

What I paid: 
£78 per head with water

Average cost without drinks and services :

Le Poulet du Dimanche: £65

Carlos Pl  London W1K 2AL

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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