Sunday, 11 October 2020

The Grill at The Dorchester

Refined modern British cuisine 

Middle White suckling pig, pumpkin, bitter leaves, sherry sauce

The 5 stars Dorchester hotel is blessed with some excellent restaurants, there is the top-notch classic Cantonese restaurant China Tang, as well as the 3 Michelin starred French restaurant Alain Ducasse. However, the one that got me most excited about is The Grill, a modern British restaurant headed up by chef Tom Booton who was once the head chef at Alyn Williams. The menu is all about transforming British cuisine into something modern, fresh, and exciting, using a range of top-notch British native ingredients. I have eaten at The Grill once already when it was relaunched under Tom back in winter 2019. 1 year later, I headed back to see what new dishes he has in store and was just pleased that it has opened again after the tragic COVD-19 challenge that has made such a horrible impact on the restaurant industry.

Chicken liver and tartar canapes
Cumbrian beef tartare, radish, oxtail jelly
Mackerel, crapaudine beetroot, horseradish, hazelnuts
White onion soup, black garlic, Roscoff
Glazed veal sweetbread, lentils, maitake, celeriac

I had the glazed veal sweetbread from my first visit, and this time was just as good, if not better. It was seared and seasoned finely with a mild creamy texture, not overly bitter and grainy, and the sheet of celeriac delivered a soft tone of sweet and spicy taste, it was outstanding. The rack of suckling pig was another highlight, the skin was crispy as you can get with a great crunchy texture, it was also seasoned perfectly and I found the garnish of pumpkin worked extremely well with that mellow sweet and earthy taste, it was sensational. The new dessert 'white snicker' was a total winner. Not overly rich with a great balance of sweet nutty taste, it was such a comforting way to finish off the menu.

Lobster thermidor tart
Ribeye, stuffed shallot, tarragon, shallot rings, bone marrow sauce
White snicker
Grape Parfit, malt milk

Banana soft-serve, crispy walnuts, caramel

I have been a fan of Tom's cooking for a long time and it was good to see him stepping up to transform The Gill into something truly wonderful. The cooking was refined and retained the essence and spirit of British cuisine. Based on the cooking I have witnessed, it really does deserve a Michelin star without a doubt. The service was really friendly and warming, none of the stuffiness that you might expect from a posh hotel. All in all, what a fine restaurant it is and I would for sure head back in the near future.

Food 4/5

Average cost without drinks and services:


53 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1QA

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