Tuesday 18 January 2022

The Harwood Arms

 The peak of gastropub?


Berkswell Cheese Tart Celeriac and Thyme


Owned by Brett Graham who also runs the much celebrated The Ledbury, The Harwood Arms is the only Michelin starred pub in London, headed up by Jake who was the head chef at The Ledbury. The pub has taken full advantage of Brett's farm network and wild game experience, working with the finest meat you are able to find in the UK, all cooked in a very refined British manner. It offers a 3-course set menu with 5 choices on each course, changing daily depending on the ingredients are available to the chefs. 


Cod roe and home-baked crisp
Grilled seabream and beetroot
Red Ruby Beef Short Rib Garlic and Jerusalem Artichoke Confit in Beef Fat


For my latest visit, I opted for a few snacks before diving into a 3-course meal, and to stay to the true tradition of pub food, all portions were very generous, in fact, some starters' size could pass on as a main in some restaurants. The Berkswell cheese Tart had a bold and nutty taste, it gave me a wonderful memory of the humble cheese and onion crisps, and it was similar to the Core's version too, but at a far lower price. The earl grey tart reminded me of a similar dessert it was served at The Ledbury, the brown sugar tart. The bittersweet tea flavour was simply perfect, as was the pannacotta-like texture.

Cornish Monkfish Shiitake with Pumpkin and Brown Crab Sauce

Earl Grey Tart Candied Apples and Jersey Milk
Xmas egg tart

The quality of the cooking was outstanding and the reason I was not able to go often is down to the pub located on the other side of London, There are plenty of gastropubs across London but is fair to say not a great deal does top quality food. Usually, I saved up a trip to a gastropub when I explore outside of London as the general restaurant quality in London is great, so not much reason for me to head to a pub for food. However, there are a few expectations of course, and The Harwood Arms is one of them.


Food 4/5

What I paid: 

£72 per person with a beer

Average cost without drinks and services:
£55


Walham Grove, London SW6 1QP


https://harwoodarms.com/

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