Sunday 10 July 2022

Lasarte Barcelona

The peak of fine dining in Barcelona?


Scarlet shrimp soup, tomato, celery and green apple


Barcelona is packed with many great restaurants, from budget tapas, seafood joints to high-end venues. I have visited Barcelona 6 times but still, there are so many places to discover, so returning to the same place has little reason for me... unless it is exceptional to the level that I would rate it as the very best you can find in Spain. Back in 2013, I dined at Lasarte (by the legend Martin Berasategui) and it opened up my eyes to how amazing fine dining can be in Spain. 9 years later, I am back once again. The chef and management team more or less stayed the same, with the restaurant having a massive revamp, with a much larger space with a much higher ceiling and a bigger kitchen. It also gained a 3rd Michelin star.


Canapes of pepper soup, monkfish, caviar, red prawn and wagyu

Eel and foie mille-feuille

Pickled oyster with hibiscus, white garlic and purple shiso granita

Cod confit with sour cream, caviar, mustard and kale

Squid tartare with liquid egg yolk, onion and kaffir consommé

Tasting menu is the way to go to sample the best Martin Berasategui can offer. There were some classic dishes on there, the eel and foie mille-feuille was as good as I remembered, it had the perfect crunchy and soft texture at the same time, almost like a creamy savoury sandwich. The squid dish on the other hand was nice, but nothing special. I felt the seasoning was lacking and the egg yolk's richness made the dish very rich. In contrast, the red prawn soup was sensational, very beautiful, and tasted defined. The prawn and tomato combo turned the dish into a seafood umami whirlpool, while extremely light and refreshing at the same time, it is the perfect summer dish. 

Warm crustacean salad on a seabed, Sherry and coral mayonnaise

Wagyu ravioli and glazed eel, iodized cream, horseradish and caviar

Fennel risotto with lobster and barnacles

Pigeon from Las Landas in its juice, acidulated fruit marmalade

Chocolate tart

I noticed the menu had an Italian touch and moved more away from Martin's flagship restaurant's style in the Basque Country vs back in 2013. Maybe I had 2 of my very best meal in the world at Martin Berasategui, so I found Lasarte was not as good despite both holding 3 Michelin stars. Don't get me wrong, I found the meal very enjoyable, but for me perhaps is 2 stars level instead of 3. There were some world-class dishes such as the oyster and red prawn, but less impressive ones like the squid ones. I think right now, the finest restaurant title in Barcelona belongs to Disfrutar


Food 4.5/5

What I paid: 
£310 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:

£255 

C/ de Mallorca, 259, 08008 Barcelona, Spain

https://www.restaurantlasarte.com/

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