Moi

Going forward or backward? 

Orkney scallop, green tomato, pickled seaweed

There is something slightly disconcerting about returning to a restaurant you remember fondly, only to find that much of what made it interesting has been changed. That is how I felt walking back into Moi in Soho. The restaurant has undergone a significant transformation, most notably with a brand-new chef at the helm, previously associated with Humo, and with that change has come a substantial rethink of the menu. In reality, though, I came away feeling that the changes have not delivered the improvement I had hoped for. In fact, in several respects, it feels like Moi has taken a step backwards. The previous incarnation had a certain spark and sense of discovery; there was an energy to the food that made you curious about what would arrive next. The new menu is certainly ambitious, and there are still some familiar elements that provide continuity, particularly the sushi, but overall the experience felt less exciting and, importantly, less consistently executed. 

Mackerl, seabass, red mullet, tuna, brill, trout

Oxtongue, sesame, wasabi

Native lobster tempura, shiso, kosho emulsion

Octopus, gochujang sauce, lime

Moi's concept is based around the simplicity of live-fire cooking, with sushi and raw dishes intended to showcase Japanese technique and produce, and there is nothing inherently wrong with that direction. The problem is that simplicity only works when the underlying ingredients, seasoning and cooking are absolutely on point. When they are not, there is nowhere for a dish to hide. The lobster rice was perhaps the clearest example. This should have been one of those dishes that immediately establishes itself as a highlight: rich lobster, beautifully cooked rice, savoury depth and enough seasoning to pull everything together. Instead, the version I had was remarkably underseasoned, almost tasteless. There was very little of the depth or intensity I was expecting, and for a dish where lobster should be the star, it lacked the flavour impact necessary to make it memorable. The lobster tempura could have been much more successful had the claw been fried whole rather than chopped up. By breaking the lobster down, the dish lost some of the textural pleasure that should make tempura so satisfying. A whole claw would have given the diner that contrast between crisp, delicate batter and the firm, succulent texture of the lobster itself. Instead, the chopped presentation made the lobster feel less substantial and robbed the dish of some of its natural character.

Scottish lobster, orange, sesame rice

Iberico pork tonkatsu, teriyaki, pear miso sauce

Yuzu meringue pie

Strawberries shaved ice

These are not catastrophic failures individually, but when several dishes fall just short in different ways, they start to undermine confidence in the kitchen. And that is ultimately what disappointed me most about the new Moi: the food did not consistently make me feel excited. I wanted the new menu to surprise me, to demonstrate why such a significant change was necessary. Instead, too many dishes felt as though they had been developed around an idea without quite reaching the point where the idea became a compelling plate of food. That said, it would be unfair to suggest that everything at the new Moi misses the mark. There are some genuinely good dishes, and they provide glimpses of what the restaurant could become if the kitchen can find greater consistency. The Iberico pork tonkatsu was one of the strongest dishes of the evening as an example. While some aspects of the menu have changed significantly, the sushi continues to demonstrate a level of precision and restraint that suits Moi particularly well. Overall, the new MOI does not feel like the step forward I was hoping for. If anything, it feels like a restaurant still searching for its new voice, and in that transition it has lost some of the character and excitement that previously made it interesting.

Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£85

84 Wardour St, London W1F 0TQ

https://moirestaurant.com/