Monday, 4 December 2017

Claude Bosi at Bibendum

Hibiscus MK2?

Claude Bosi at Bibendum

Claude Bosi is one of the most talented chefs in the UK, his cooking is all about daring to explore new flavours and challenging your mindset of what should and shouldn't work. Many chefs tried something similar but very few can pull it off, and Claude is one of them. I was gutted when his double Michelin starred Hibiscus was shut down last year as the restaurant offered some of the most exciting tastes you can find in London. Fortunately, he has returned to a new restaurant, taking over the top floor of Bibendum in South Kensington. Amazingly, the restaurant was only opened in Spring this year but already awarded 2 Michelin stars from the 2018 guide.

Not your typical olives... 
...and ice cream
Coconut egg with curry & mushroom
Crab and English apple
Cappelletti in toasted rice consomme

Having eaten at Hibiscus a number of times, I just know his tasting menu offering would be something special and that is what I went for. The meal started off with some familiar canapes, such as the foie gras ice cream and the coconut & mushroom egg, taking me back to the good old days... The first course of Cornish crab and apple gave me a little summer vibe on a cold winter day, the freshness of the crab worked so well with the sweetness and crispness of the apple, I would happily eat another 10 plates of those. The foie gras dish was finished off in a smoke pot and had an interesting buttery texture, the use of yuzu was a little bit aggressive and I felt a touch more smoke and salt would have given the dish more balance. The last savoury course came in the form of a masterpiece of venison, cooked to perfection with a melting texture. It was rich but not overly strong, earthy with a fine balance of bittersweet aftertaste, while the roasting jus delivered a sensational umami finish.

Cod "Grenobloise"
Every tastes better in smoke right?
Foie gras, yuzu
The mother of all venison dish
Cheeses, taken from a 007 style cheese board
Passionfruit, sesame and pumpkin

The tasting menu at Claude Bosi's new restaurant is nothing short of brilliant, but interestingly enough, the menu is very similar to the Hibiscus's days. I was expecting a little more new elements and excitements from Bibendum, but having said that, the cooking was still really top notch and not many London restaurants can rival the quality that Bibendum has on offer. Service was solid enough with the wine sommelier especially was very helpful and attended our need at a perfectly balanced pace.I was also a fan of the informal, relaxing decor of the restaurant, with plenty of sunlight which was something Hibiscus was really lacking. Bibendum is clearly going to be one of the hottest dining destination very soon and it is good to have you back in the Capital, Mr Bosi.

Food 4/5

Executive chef: 

Claude Bosi

What I paid: 

£175 pp with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:

£40 set lunch menu
£110 tasting menu

Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, Chelsea, London SW3 6RD 

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