The new honey in town
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| Marseillaise Bouillabaisse |
The original Wild Honey in Mayfair was a small cozy fine dining restaurant that full of charm. It offered modern French cuisine without over the top creativity which gained a Michelin star. Fast forward to 2019, it has relocated to St James inside the luxury 5 stars Sofitel hotel. Looking at the menu, not a great deal has changed, a French cuisine based menu that mostly using local British ingredients. Head up by Anthony Demetre, who is one of the top chefs in the UK with Michelin stars following him wherever he goes. I went for dinner and tried out a few of the dishes from the alc menu, to see if much has changed vs the old days.
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| Smoked eel, pink fir potatoes, monks beard |
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| Roasted partridge, liver on toast |
The starter of smoked eel reminded me of the version at Quo Vadis with an eel sandwich. The fattiness of the fish was beautiful and matched well with the coolness of horseradish. The roasted partridge was the special of the evening and I was so glad I ordered it, the bird was seasoned perfectly, the meat was tender with just a small hint of smokiness. It came with liver on toast which was earthy and pleasantly rich. The best dish of the meal, however, was the English custard tart. It was light but creamy, full of wonderful vanilla and buttery taste, it was even better than Marcus Wearing's version.
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| Grilled seabass, winter greens glazed with Moroccan lemon and honey |
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| Classic English custard tart, golden sultanas, pine nuts |
The new Wild Honey appeared to be less refined and more informal in its cooking approach vs the original site, it even had rustic dishes like the Marseillaise Bouillabaisse (which I found it pretty average). It was overall very enjoyable, and the price is reasonable considering it is inside a luxury hotel. I would love to head back to try out other dishes as I am a fan of Anthony Demetre, he is simply a great chef and UK is lucky to have such a talented and humble professional like him.
Food 3.5/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£45
8 Pall Mall, St. James's, London SW1Y 5NG
https://www.wildhoneystjames.co.uk/
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