Monday 19 September 2022

Oxeye

Cutting edge fine dining, Masterchef style 


Wholegrain brioche, confit yolk, caviar


Located in Nine Elm, Oxeyes is former Masterchef Pro winner Sven Hanson Britt's first solo restaurant in London. The tiny restaurant has somewhat an exclusive view about it, located within the Embassy Gardens housing development. Oxeye is a dinner-only venue with 20 covers. Guests are encouraged to enjoy a drink in the waiting area before a waiter would guide you to your table. The concept is largely focused on British ingredients, but the cooking itself has inspiration from around the world, from Japan to Denmark.


Oyster, lobster and crab snacks

Cucumber, almond milk, daikon, caviar

Orkney scallop, smoked eel, honey


The 10-course menu kicked off with some small snacks, before moving on to bigger dishes. The grilled scallop was a touch over-seasoned and also overcooked. The quality of the Scottish scallop was fantastic, just a shame it wasn't cooked properly. In contrast, the wild seabass was really enjoyable, sweet, and aromatic, the saffron and basil delivered a wonderful inviting aroma, and everything worked like magic with the addition of fish bone sauce. The roasted rack of hogget was cooked to perfection too, the fat was rendered nicely, it had a melting buttery smoky taste. The use of lovage and Aleppo pepper offered a soft grassy heat that accompany the meat wonderfully.

Wild seabass, saffron, basil and gurnard sauce

Roasted hogget, tomato, lavage

Beewax, canele, mushrooms


Oxeye was far from perfect, but there are for sure plenty of fun and exciting elements at the same time. I do find the theatre aspect of the dinner uplifted the whole dining experience, but feel some didn't deliver in taste, while it increased my expectation. Sven Hanson Britt clearly decided is a risk worth taking as that is what makes Oxeye unique and stand apart vs other fine dining restaurants in London. 


Food 3.5/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£138 (Tasting menu)

Embassy Gardens, 14 New Union Square, Nine Elms, London SW11 7AX

https://oxeyerestaurant.co.uk/ 

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