Sunday 9 October 2022

Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal

Sophisticated French dine dining


Monkfish tail


The opening of Alex Dilling at Hotel Cafe Royal was such a joy for me. Too many restaurants come and go, but there has not been any high-quality opening since Covid, but given Alex Dilling is one of the best chefs in the UK, you just know the new restaurant going to be something special. My first visit was a hit, and decide to return the week after. My reason to return to the restaurant was simple. Both of its tasting menus have different dishes and both looked so appealing, so the solution was simple. Head there twice so I was able to enjoy both.


Piperade - "Bouillabaisse" - Smoked Mackerel Terrine

Caviar, crab, smoked cream, ginger

Sardine, Buttermilk, Cuttlefish, Vinaigrette "Perlé

Pate Boudin Noir, Iberico Ham, Andignac Foie Gras

The clam chowder was a classic from Alex Dilling, the cockles and razor clams were finely presented on star-shaped potatoes, with a sweet umami shellfish sauce on top, not to mention a good spoon of caviar on top to turn it into a masterpiece seafood dish. The roasted monkfish tail was easily the best dish of the lot, wrapped with prosciutto and cooked to the perfect temperature. It reminded me of the stunning hunter chicken dish back in the greenhouse days, with its flavour and texture, highly sophisticated and extremely delicious. The hazelnut dessert was a knocked-out, creamy and nutty while not overly rich, perhaps the best dessert I have encountered this year in the UK.

Dorset Clams, Caviar, Confit Potato, Sarawak Peppe

Lamb, olive, cep

Hazelnut, vanilla, brandy


My second meal at Alex Dilling was just as good as my first visit, despite it having opened for less than a month, I would say the refinement of the cooking is already reaching Michelin star level. Give it another 6 months once the team got more experience and gels together, I can see it becoming one of the very best restaurants in London has to offer. Watch the space.



Food 4/5


What I paid: 
£250 per head, with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£155 (tasting menu)


68 Regent St., London W1B 4DY

https://alexdilling.com/ 

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