Sunday 9 October 2022

The Harwood Arms

 Pub champion


Venison Scotch Egg


The only pub in London with a Michelin star, The Harwood Arms is also my no1 gastropub. Co-owned by the chef legend Brett Graham, the pub's food offering can easily rival other fine dining restaurants across the capital. Last year, the restaurant installed Jake, the former head chef of The Ledbury. I noticed many dishes on the menu had a Ledbury vibe, with some similar ingredients and descriptions, and at a more rustic level. it offers a 3-course a la carte at £65, and you are able to spend a little more on pre-dinner pub snacks such as Scotch egg. 


Potato Crisps with Cod Roe

Charred Mackerel Smoked Eel, Jersey Royals and Parsley Sauce

Salad of Green Beans Iberico Ham, Almonds and Plum


The scotch egg was outstanding, the yolk had a lovely melting texture, and the venison meat was finely seasoned and really moist. In fact, I found it so great that the side of brown sauce wasn't really needed at all. The green bean salad was a perfect example of taste harmony, I really enjoyed the crunchiness of the beans and the nuttiness of the almond cream. The Iberico ham acted like an umami seasoning which dressed up the dish wonderfully. My main Iberico pork loin was rich and really tender, cooked to the perfect level, and it came with some roasted mushrooms and carrots. It was basally roasted pork on another level.

British Iberian Pork Carrots, Marmalade and Mushrooms

Berkshire Fallow Deer Faggot, Red Leaves and Cranberries

Lemon Thyme Panna Cotta Olive Oil and Fig Leaf Ice Cream


I found my 4th visit (this time) is the best by far. After just over a year working at The Harwood Arms, it seems Jake really integrated and was able to turn out some amazing fine dining quality dishes, and taking advantage of The Ledbury's supplier network to able to source some really fine ingredients. The £65 price tag, in today's London market status, I would consider it to be excellent value for money. You can easily spend more than £100 elsewhere and get food half as good. So, for any food lovers, who enjoy a casual vibe with great beer, I can't think of a better place than The Harwood Arms.


Food 4/5

What I paid: 

£92 per person with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£65


Walham Grove, London SW6 1QP


https://harwoodarms.com/

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