Ristorante I Portici

From Bologna to around the world

Marinated sea bass with green curry, fermented banana

Located inside a 5 stars hotel with the same name, I Portici is also the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Bologna. The restaurant has impressive decor, as set in a former theater space. The kitchen is headed up by Gianluca Renzi, who came from the much-celebrated 3 stars restaurant La Pergola in Rome. Interestingly enough, he also worked at Apsleys in London which was one of the finest Italian restaurants in London back in the day. At Portici, in the usual fine dining manner, it offers a tasting menu that has a story theme to it. It kicks off with the familiar taste of Bologna, before heading off far and beyond with International elements.

Red shrimp, cryo-extracted gazpacho, green apple

Double ravioli of pumpkin and lamb, truffle, mushrooms

"Fagottelli" 12 - 24 - 36

The first course of seabass with banana was usual. The sweetness of the banana was perhaps a little bit too bold for me, I would prefer a fruit that has a more sour note. The 3 ages of Parmasen fagottelli was a special dish, the pasta was really thin and filled with a Parmesan soup that was blessed with so much umami taste. It was similar to a Chinese xiao long bao in mouthfeel, and I got nothing but love for it. The meat course of the day was the deer, and oh my it was really a special dish. The meat was tender and came with a stunning meat and truffle sauce, which was bold with just the right level of game taste. The black garlic and foie element also added richness and sharpness, even the potato was done expertly, it was easily the dish of the day.

Fusillone "Felicetti", almond, sea urchins, cuttlefish

Steamed turbot, fig oil, lemon, romaine lettuce

Loin of Roe deer, wild garlic, foie gras and truffle sauce

Ristorante I Portici had a lot of creative elements in its tasting menu, but I generally found the more classic dishes, such as pasta and meat worked far better. The chef was able to turn traditional dishes into something really outstanding with the use of top-level ingredients, with a sophisticated touch. The overall meal does deserve its Michelin star status, and the dining room does make the whole experience a touch more special.

Food 4/5

What I paid: 
£140 with water

Average cost without drinks and services:
£130

Via dell'Indipendenza, 69, 40121 Bologna BO, Italy

https://www.iporticihotel.com/ristorante-i-portici-bologna/