Contemporary British with a twist
I came across The Dairy while I was doing some research on the internet for modern British cuisine, and after looking at the concept and pictures of the food, it just seemed very interesting. I really enjoyed the idea of small plates sharing food using fresh ingredients grown in its own garden as well as fine British suppliers, cooked in a modern manner with creative ingredient combinations. So even though it is at Clapham which is far away from where I work and live, I still felt it was worth a detour after work for a visit.
The setting of The Dairy is what I would expect from a Shoredtich hip venue, edgy and contemporary with bar seating at the front and an narrow dining room at the back. We decided to go for a la carte style instead of the tasting menu so we could try a little more food, first to arrive was a selection of small snacks which reminded me a little like The Clove Club. The cod's head rillettes was creamy and smooth, worked nicely with the salty seaweed bread. Venison Scotch was also quality, I really enjoyed the nutty aroma of the chestnuts on top of a well made earthy Scotch egg.
|cod's head rillettes, sour cream, seaweed bread|
chicken liver mousse, quince &
venison Scotch egg, brussel tops, toasted chestnuts
|charred leak, three cornered garlic, egg york|
For the fish and meat courses, we ordered two different dishes each and shared, the smoked cod was cooked in a water bath and it tasted so soft and silky. Seabass with sweet chard was perfectly cooked, a classic combination but executed in an edgy and modern manner. Irish onglet was cooked pink and it was moist and well seasoned, the fruity profile of the butternut squash worked as a great contrast to the robust flavour of the onglet. The Herdwick mutton loin on the other hand was very tender and had a lovely richness to it, the idea of having capers and anchovy also added a nice sharpness to the whole dish.
|Lady Hamilton smoked cod, potato, fresh nori, sorrel|
|seabass, swiss chard, bonito butter|
|Herdwick mutton loin, broccoli, anchovy, capers|
|aged irish onglet, butternut squash, black cabbage|
|pear, toasted white chocolate, sheep yoghurt panna cotta|
|salt carmel, biscults, malted barley ice cream|
£45 per head with a beer
15 The Pavement, London, Clapham SW4 0HY