A new chapter
Isle of Mull scallop |
It is very common to see chefs wanting to have their very own restaurant, but what surprise me was it took that long for Clare Smyth to leave Gordon Ramsay to set up her own gig at Notting Hill. After maintaining 3 Michelin stars status for Gordon's flagship restaurant Royal Hospital Road for almost 9 years and won countless awards such as National Chef of the Year and perfect 10 by the Good Food Guide. I had high expectation and I was really interested to see what Clare's cooking is really like when she has total freedom on the dishes creation, and how it compare to other top dogs in London, such as The Ledbury, which is just down the road from Core.
Crispy smoked duck wings, Jellied eel, pumpkin & aged parmesan gougères |
Charlotte potato dulse beurre blanc, herring and trout roe |
Lamb braised carrot sheep’s milk yoghurt |
I tried out the tasting menu which came with high numbers of amuse bouches. The good but not wonderful dish was the Charlotte potato, the portion was too big and a little off balance with the herring and trout roe. The main course of roast grouse was an instant winner for me, smoky in aroma and rich in taste, it was cooked to perfection and worked so well with the bittersweet profile of the red cabbage, it was a plate of pure sensation and perfect for the Autumn season. It is not easy to find a top quality dessert in London, but the pear and verbena from Core was really something, besides the beautiful presentation, it showcased the exceptional craftsmanship from the pastry team with multi-layers of textures hidden inside. It was light and refreshing yet packed with fruity flavours.
Skate Morecambe bay shrimps, Swiss chard, brown butter |
Roast grouse red cabbage, bell heather |
Cherry bakewell |
Pear and verbena poire Williams sorbet |
My lunch at Core was a wonderful experience, besides the great cooking, the service was also fantastic, our waiter doesn't miss a beat yet kept it casual at the same time. I think the £95 tasting menu cost is also fair, as you are getting some really top notch fine dining level cooking. I would love to see the restaurant develop a more luxury menu with more high-end ingredients to see what the Core team are really capable of. But of course, it is still early days for the team to fine tune and irons out all the issues. But based on my visit, I think Core is really a great fine dining restaurant that can turn into something pretty special, and I will 100% return in the near future.
Food 4/5
Executive chef:
Clare Smyth
What I paid:
£133 pp with a glass of wine and coffee
Average cost without drinks and services:
£75 3 courses menu
£95 tasting menu
92 Kensington Park Rd, London W11 2PN
https://www.corebyclaresmyth.com/
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