French with a British lens
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| Brill, scallop & vadouvan velouté |
There is something rather appealing about the story behind 64 Goodge Street, not least because it feels like the sort of restaurant that could easily have been there for decades, even though it is a relatively recent addition to Fitzrovia. The kitchen is led by executive chef Stuart Andrew, whose experience and affection for French cooking underpin the restaurant's culinary identity. The design follows a similar philosophy: deep greens, warm wood, brass details and Parisian bistro references create something that feels elegant without becoming overly formal. It is French, certainly, but not in the manner of a grand, ceremonious dining room where every movement feels choreographed. Instead, 64 Goodge Street occupies that increasingly attractive middle ground between the traditional neighbourhood bistro and contemporary fine dining. That distinction is important because the restaurant's Michelin star could easily lead you to expect something more serious, more hushed and perhaps more self-conscious. In reality, the atmosphere is remarkably relaxed.