Row on 5

Best of 2 stars in London

Oyster and caviar

Founded by serial restaurateur and chef Jason Atherton, the tasting menu only, fine dining concept champions British ingredients with a Japanese influence. Row on 5 feels like the kind of restaurant you arrive at already knowing you’re going to be taken care of, and then it quietly exceeds that expectation. The staff move with an ease that instantly puts you at rest, reading the table well, explaining when you want detail, and stepping back when you don’t. There’s a sense of purpose without pressure, which sets the tone for the meal. From the moment you sit down, moving from one room to another, time seems to slow slightly. The pacing is thoughtful, the room hums rather than buzzes, and you feel encouraged to settle in rather than rush through an experience.

Moi

Japanese grill king

Baked Rice, Wild Mushrooms, Cacklebean Egg Yolk

Moi in Soho doesn’t try to ease you in gently. From the moment you step through the door, it feels like you’ve walked into something alive, something a little electric. The room hums with energy, not just from the crowd but from the open grill itself, where flames flicker and flare like part of the performance. You can smell it before you even sit down, that deep, smoky richness that only real fire cooking can deliver. While Moi also does great cold dishes such as sushi and rolls, what really makes this place stand out is the grill dishes. The menu leans heavily into the grill, and rightly so. It’s the beating heart of the kitchen. What stands out is the precision behind the intensity. Nothing feels careless or overdone.

Alta

Open fire Spanish concept

Crab Rice, Pomelo

ATLA in Soho sits right in the middle of the kind of foot traffic that can make or break a restaurant. On arrival, it gives off a confident first impression. The space feels clean and modern without trying too hard, with warm lighting, open sightlines, and a layout that keeps things moving even when it’s busy.  The menu leans into a modern grill concept, with a mix of meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes designed for sharing. On paper, it’s promising. There’s a sense that the kitchen wants to keep things simple and let the grill do the work. Below captured my 3rd and 4th visit.

Burro

 The new Italian kid in the garden

Anchovies, crostini and butter

From the people behind the infamous Italian restaurant Trullo in North London, Burro is the kind of place that arrives in London with a quiet confidence. Inside, the room is warm without trying too hard, with soft lighting, pale wood, and just enough texture to stop it from feeling generic. The staff strikes a balance that’s harder than it looks: attentive without hovering, knowledgeable without sounding rehearsed. On my visit, the server talked through the menu like someone who had actually tasted everything, offering quick, honest opinions rather than a memorised script. Burro isn’t aiming to reinvent Italian food or chase trends. It’s trying to cook familiar things well, with good ingredients, and serve them in a room where people want to stay a while. 

Nanyang Blossom

 South East Asian flavours showcase

Nanyang chicken rolls

Founded by Chef Daren Liew, the concept of Nanyang Blossom draws from the idea of “Nanyang,” a term that evokes migration, cultural exchange, and the blending of Southeast Asian traditions with new environments. That idea of movement and adaptation feels central to the restaurant’s identity. Rather than recreating a single country or moment in time, Nanyang Blossom seems interested in what happens when flavours, memories, and techniques travel and settle somewhere new, in this case, London. The food itself is thoughtful and confident, rooted in Southeast Asian influences while clearly shaped for a London audience that values balance, avoiding extremes and instead aiming for harmony. Dishes arrive beautifully presented but not precious, inviting you to dig in rather than admire from afar.