Underrated West London gem
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| Chargrilled octopus, smoked beetroot purée, pickled carrots & capers |
West London is no stranger to excellent dining, but every so often, a place comes along that quietly raises the bar. La Palombe is one of those places. Tucked away on a calm street, this restaurant blends French culinary tradition with a polished, contemporary touch, ALC style. The reason I give this place a visit is down to the head chef here, Jake Leach, who was head chef at my beloved fine dining restaurant Ledbury and the greatest food-led pub in London aka The Harwood Arms. He alone warrants a visit, as I have eaten some amazing meals over the years at those sites.
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| Beef tartare, egg yolk, grated horseradish |
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| Wild noisette venison, celeriac roasted in brown butter |
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| Chicken Ballotine, corns and onions |
I have had a chance to try most things on the menu as I was able to share with a few friends. The chargrilled octopus Provençale, served with tomato, capers, and a bright sauce vierge, strikes a balance between smoky fire and Mediterranean sharpness without overwhelming the palate. The roast chicken ballotine showcased excellent technical skill, accompanied by mushrooms and sweetcorn with a rich jus, component complements each other; the chicken is neither dry nor dull, just a pure joy. The wild Noisette venison, paired with a killer Diane sauce—robust meats, tenderly cooked so the texture is lively yet yielding, lacquered in flavor rather than masked.
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| Confit Cumbrian pork belly, Jerusalem artichokes, crackling |
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| Wild Cornish cod, cabbage |
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| Strawberry tart |
Service, meanwhile, reflects the same ethos of controlled confidence. Staff are knowledgeable without arrogance, very friendly, and full of warmth and energy. La Palombe's achievement lies in the precision of its cooking, the assurance of its service, and the quiet elegance of its dining room. In a part of London crowded with venues that trade in noise — both literal and metaphorical — La Palombe offers something rarer: a meal that persuades you not by shouting, but by executing with poise. It is, quite simply, very good, and in the current climate of West London dining, that is more than enough to make it stand apart. It is a Michelin-star-level venue for me, easily. In fact, it is a better than many-starred London restaurant.
Food 4/5
What I paid: £75 per person
Average cost without drinks and services: £65
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