Saturday, 7 September 2019

Luke Selby at Mortimer House

Guest chef series at Mortimer House

Roasted Native Lobster, Fennel & Smoked Butter Sauce with Tempura Claw

I have been a fan of the TV program The Great British Menu on BBC for years, a great show that put some of the finest chefs from around the nation, completing to put up showstopping dishes. One of this year's winners is Luke Selby, the former head chef from the Michelin starred Hide in Mayfair, he has taken over Mortimer House (a private clubhouse with a restaurant) in Fitzrovia for 1 month, showcasing his cooking flair, including his winning dish the smoked butter lobster from The Great British Menu. His menu at Mortimer House is short and snap, it is basically a small a la carte menu, with only 3 choices from each of the starter, main and sweet sessions. 

Tartlet of Fennel, Orange & Shellfish Reduction and Onion Brioche
Smoked Haddock Chowder, Potato, Leek & Crispy Quail Egg
Roasted Veal Sweetbread, Parmesan Gnocchi, Almond, Watercress

For starter, I opted for roasted veal sweetbread, it is packed with so much umami flavours, I really enjoyed the texture of the sweetbread, with just a tiny hint of earthiness coming from the mushroom, the combination of the ingredients on the plate was simply fantastic. The signature roasted native lobster had a theater effect of smoke, the sharpness and sourness of the fennel worked like a seasoning for the sweet lobster, it was very tender and it was so enjoyable that the side of smoked butter sauce wasn't really needed at all. The dish also came with a pair of tempura, the batter was perfect, really crispy and cooked to the right level, I could not fault it at all. I would say the dessert is the weak point of the meal, while the chocolate and hazelnut pudding was decent, it just wasn't in the same league when compared to to the starter and main course.

Whole Stuffed Quail, Golden Turnip, Raisins & Grapefruit
English Apple ‘Almondine’, Caramel & Ginger
Chocolate & Hazelnut

I have never been to Hide so I couldn't compare, but based on my meal at Mortimer House, I just know Luke can easily earn his own Michelin star if he ever decides to open his own restaurant. His cooking style is refreshing, very modern with plenty of international influences, and very refined at the same time. What also impressed me is that his cooking style is fairly unique, not something I have quite yet encountered in London. I wonder where will he goes next, but I know if he set up a restaurant in London, I would be booking a table right away without needing to think twice.

Food 4/5

Average cost without drinks and services:


41 Mortimer St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3JH

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