Cornus

New yet familiar 

 

Seabass tartare, oyster cream, green apple and shiso

London is a city that never sleeps, and its food scene is no exception. The recent addition to its vibrant culinary map is Cornus. This contemporary European restaurant is already making waves, by the same group of people behind the much-loved French restaurant Medlar. Cornus’s menu is where the restaurant truly shines. It champions British ingredients while incorporating global influences. The dishes are familiar yet inventive, offering a fresh take on traditional British fare. The executive chef of Cornus is Gary Foulkes, who came from Michelin-starred Angler, and I am a massive fan of its seafood-focused menu.

Pig head and cheese tart

Handpicked Devon Crab, Hass avocado, wasabi and finger lime

Cornish Bluefin Tuna, late summer tomatoes, blood peach

Roast Newlyn Cod, persillade of Scottish girolles, line caught squid

I opted for the tasting menu and noticed there were some very similar dishes, from Gary's Angler days. The seabass tartar was top-notch, very fresh, and finely chopped. The apple and oyster cream added freshness and sweetness, and everything worked in perfect harmony. The roasted cod was another similar dish I had from the Angler days. It was done well and I enjoyed every element, likely as good as a cod dish can get, but why take an Angler dish and just apply it to a new restaurant... Something new finally was a roasted pigeon dish, the meat was very tender and the classic garnish of Chesnut gave an Autumn feel to it which I really enjoyed.

Roast Pigeon “des Gourmets”, chestnut puree, apricot and Sri Lankan cinnamon

Vanilla cream with raspberry jelly

Apricot and chamomile Mille-feuille, Pompona vanilla

Chocolate barquette, Mekonga 70%, Sicilian pistachio

The cooking at Cornus is hard to fault, in fact, it was of really high quality, but I just don't get why there are so many copy-and-paste dishes from Angler when Gary could have started something brand new, it was a strange move for me. But for those who have never experienced Angler before, Cornus is indeed more than just a new restaurant in London—it’s an experience that celebrates the best of British cuisine with an innovative edge. From the moment you walk in, you’re treated to impeccable service, beautifully crafted dishes, and a welcoming atmosphere that feels both chic and comfortable.

Food 4/5


What I paid: 
£201 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£155

27c Eccleston Pl, London SW1W 9NF

https://cornusrestaurant.co.uk/