The Dairy goes East
Paradise Garage |
Bethnal Green is slowly turning into a trendy food and drink hub, first we had the fine dining sensation The Typing Room in the Town Hall Hotel, then the hipster wine bar Mission and now Paradise Garage, the latest restaurant opened by Robin Gill, the founder behind one of the most talked about London restaurants, The Dairy. Robin is known for using prime British ingredients and its own garden herbs. The format of the menu at Paradise Garage is very similar to The Dairy, with a tasting menu and the usual a la carte option. Located under a train bridge with an open spaced kitchen and cocktail bar.
bread, smoked whisky butter and salumi |
Cornish crab, kohlrabi, apple and grilled lemon |
grilled sweetcorn, hemp seed and savoury |
salt cod brandade, squid ink, shellfish crisp |
clams, courgettes, herb oil |
artichokes, padron peppers, fresh curd, chilli salsa |
We went for the tasting menu and in The Dairy fashion, it started off with a selection of snacks, salt cod brandade with squid ink's mild saltiness and creaminess made it a very good savoury dish to start off the meal. Charred mackerel with smoked cod roe was a very robust dish with a great depth of meaty and creamy tastes, the pickles gave this dish a high contrast in flavour and coolness. Both the meat courses were top class, the venison haunch was so rich and moist with just a tiny bit of earthiness which worked so well with the mushroom and salty flavour from the miso. The Welsh lamb rump on the other hand was super tender with a good arrangement of classic garnishes such as cabbage and peas, all cooked to a very high standard.
charred mackerel, smoked cod roe, pickles, rice cracker |
Welsh lamp rump, sweetbread, cabbage, peas, preserved lemon |
venison haunch, mushrooms, chard, miso and hazelnuts |
cucumber sorbet, melon and basil |
white chocolate, strawberries, raspberry, lemon verbena |
Innis and Gunn beer, blackberries and almonds |
My evening at Paradise Garage totally lived up to my expectations, plenty of fresh flavours and good ingredient combinations, all nicely presently in a simple and eye catching way. Sometimes less is really more, the cooking isn't overly complicated or trying too hard and The Dairy/ Paradise Garage's formula is just spot on, in fact I think it is one of the very best modern British restaurants in the East End and I would highly recommend it if you live in East London but are seeking a quality trendy restaurant without wanting to travel to central London.
Food 3.5/5
Head chef:
Simon Woodrow
What I paid:
£51 pp
Average cost without drinks and services:
£45 pp tasting menu
254 Paradise Row, London E2 9LE
Love the way they have made use of all the roof space and the venison haunch looks great
ReplyDeleteSuze | LuxuryColumnist
Yes!! The venison was the best dish for me:P Did you go too?
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