Angler

 Seafood fine dining in the City

Newlyn cod Scottish girolles, new season onions, Cornish squid

Since the spread of COVID 19, the City of London has been such an empty zone. With many city workers still working from home, restaurants are clearly struggling in that area. Angler, the seafood specialist restaurant is in the heart of the City and I did wonder if it could survive. I have been to the fine dining hotel restaurant back in 2014 when it was newly awarded a Michelin star, it has since kept it ever since even after a change of head chef in 2018. The restaurant has a big focus on seafood, you will see plenty of local fishes and shellfishes on the menu, such as Cornish mackerels and Scottish scallops. Like many high-end restaurants, it has a short al la carte menu, as well as a good value set menu and a tasting menu.

Eel and beetroot parmesan canapes

Raw Orkney scallop Oscietra caviar, wasabi, pickled radish

Native lobster pistou soup, Alsace bacon, garden pesto

I opted for 3 courses from the alc menu. The starter of raw scallop was creamy, rich yet tasted so sweet and packed with the taste of the sea. The white radish garnish added a nice crunchy and earthy tone to balance off the sweetness, and the caviar on top acted like an umami seasoning which links up everything on the dish brilliantly. The main Cornish turbot was a stunning dish, it was cooked perfectly, super moist, and well seasoned. The crab and tomato bisque added such an impactful sweet, fresh and rich umami flavour to the fish. It looked simple visually but the cooking execution was done in such a masterful manner. Less impressive was the dessert. The cheesecake's presentation looked refined, but taste not too far from any standard versions you would find in many places across London.

Wild turbot scallop stuffed courgette, Dorset crab, Bouillabaisse sauce

Cheesecake

Lyche, coconut, raspberries

My second Angler visit was without a doubt a step better than my first visit, I felt everything improved. The cooking of the savory dishes was really refined, nothing too fancy or pretentious, just purely great cooking using top-notch British seafood. The dessert might be on the weaker side but overall I think Angler totally warrant its Michelin star status. The restaurant was about 80% full when I visited on a Thursday night, which is an achievement in itself considering the City is so empty right now with many restaurants nearby all still shut. There are people still willing to travel to dine at Angler clearly showcase the quality and popularity of the venue.

Food 4/5

What I paid:
£92 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£75

South Place Hotel, 3 South Pl, London EC2M 2AF

https://southplacehotel.com/eat-and-drink/angler/