Saturday 25 June 2022

Restaurant einsunternull Berlin

 Technical supreme fine dining joint


Char, salad, brown butter

To round off my Berlin trip on a high, I happened to pick Einsunternull for a few reasons, it is only a 1 min walk from my hotel. Another factor is if I compare the food presentation to other Berlin Michelin-starred restaurants, it appears its refine level is a notch above most, visually very impressive. The restaurant label itself approaches cooking in the Berliner manner with a creative touch, as I am a tourist with a very open mind, I was more than happy just to sit back and see what Einsunternull has to offer me.


Bread and butter

Skate, rhubarb, basil
Pike, hollandaise, langoustine


What really impressed me with the food offered at Einsunternull is the layers of complexity and flavours, which I can relate to the modern French fine dining approach. Take the pike dish as an example, it was a seafood whirlpool that contained langoustine in tartar form, with fish roe and finely sliced oyster which offered multi-layers of seafood sensation, while the pike was cooked to perfection, with every element on the dish worked in harmony together. The rhubarb dessert displayed some fine pastry skills which are far too rare these days in London, I enjoyed the well-balanced sweet and sour, and the garnishes of well-placed herbs added freshness, is those little detail that set the difference between a good dessert to an outstanding dessert. 


Egg, mushrooms, spinach

Lamb, asparagus, ricotta, morel

Rhubarb, buckwheat, pear


Einsunternull was bloody good indeed, in fact, if the very same restaurant opened in London with that kind of food offering, I think it is at the 2 stars level. The challenge with UK-based Michelin-starred restaurants these days is the weak dessert offering and the lack of technical display, which is something Einsunternull has done in a remarkable manner, I just wish there are more restaurants like that in the UK. Also credit to the sommelier, the restaurant has its own label wine selection and they are extremely impressive, some of the finest German wine I have tasted yet is not at a silly high price. Einsunternull was the best Berlin restaurant I have encountered so far.


Food 4.5/5

What I paid: 

£161 per person with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
150 Euro


Hannoversche Str. 1, 10115 Berlin, Germany


https://restaurant-einsunternull.de/

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