Roketsu

 The peak of Kaiseki in London

Scallops, lobster, seabream, sole

Top-class Kaiseki-style Japanese cuisine is hard to come by in the UK, and in fact, besides the Michelin-starred Umu, I can't think of another kaiseki restaurant in London. Launched in January 2022, Roketsu is a one-of-a-kind Kaiseki restaurant. It goes to the very traditional route instead of trying to engineer the cuisine to be more local friendly. The interior was built in Japan and transferred to the UK, with only 10 seats in the dining room along with an open kitchen, run by chef-owner Daisuke Hayashi. It offers a fix priced 10-course menu, mostly based on seafood.

Seabass and lobster mukozuke

Fatty tuna, egg, caviar

Dover sole, egg tofu, mushrooms

Grilled quail, soy, beetroot

Kaiseki menu usually would contain raw fish and Roketsu was no expectation. The Scottish native blue lobster had a sweet melting texture, as fresh as you can get. The house-blended soy sauce with fish bones worked like a treat with the fresh Cornish seabass too. When a restaurant can turn a vegetable dish into something special, you know the chef is seriously talented. The corn puree combined the sweet reddish and mushrooms in harmony, every mouthful was a taste sensation, I think I have tasted the best plate of vegetables in my life. The last savoury dish is a bowl of eel rice, the sweet aroma, combined with the inviting dashi umami taste, created a really comforting feel, it was a lovely ending.

Mushroom, radish, sweet corn

Red mullet, aubergine, tofu

Conger eel rice, cucumber soup

Fig compote, black tea granite, rum ice cream

Roketsu was easily the most refined and sophisticated Japanese restaurant I have come across in London. The level of detail was second to none. It made other high-end Japanese venues like Zuma and Roka feel like child's play. Roketsu's food offering is serious and perfect for anyone seeking a very authentic kaiseki experience. Come 2023, without a doubt I can see it landing a Michelin star, maybe even 2. This place is really special.

Food 4.5/5

What I paid: 
£240 with sake

Average cost without drinks and services:
£190 (dinner only)

12 New Quebec St, London W1H 7RW

https://www.roketsu.co.uk/