Tuesday, 1 September 2026

Vesper

 London opening of the year?


Clams, beans and cider cream


Restaurant Vesper, Jackson Boxer’s latest London opening, arrives on Exmouth Market with the sort of easy confidence you’d expect from a chef who has spent years developing a distinctive voice across the capital. Boxer first made his name at Brunswick House in Vauxhall, which he has run since 2010. Vesper, which opened in June 2026, is his latest expression of that cooking philosophy: modern European food that takes inspiration from across the continent while remaining firmly rooted in good British produce. The restaurant occupies a bright corner site, with a lively bar, whitewashed interiors and bistro tables facing onto Exmouth Market. The menu doesn’t seem particularly interested in being constrained by a single national tradition, instead moving comfortably between French, British, Spanish and wider European influences. That makes it an interesting place to eat because you’re never quite sure what the next plate will bring.

Tavern

 Good but could be better


Pig skin and cod roe


Tavern arrives on Old Street with the kind of pedigree that immediately raises expectations. This is the latest venture from the team behind the Michelin-starred St Barts, replacing their former restaurant Nest with a concept that shifts away from tasting-menu precision towards something more approachable, nostalgic and unmistakably British. Executive chef Brendan Appleby and head chef Kirsty Easterbrook have brought with them the technical discipline and respect for ingredients that earned St Barts its acclaim, but here the ambition is channelled into the language of the British tavern: generous cooking, honest produce, nose-to-tail philosophy and dishes that celebrate the country's culinary traditions without falling into cliché. Expectations are therefore understandably high, and while much of Tavern delivers on that promise, the food itself proves to be a more uneven experience than the polished setting initially suggests.