Alta

Open fire Spanish concept

Crab Rice, Pomelo

ATLA in Soho sits right in the middle of the kind of foot traffic that can make or break a restaurant. On arrival, it gives off a confident first impression. The space feels clean and modern without trying too hard, with warm lighting, open sightlines, and a layout that keeps things moving even when it’s busy.  The menu leans into a modern grill concept, with a mix of meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes designed for sharing. On paper, it’s promising. There’s a sense that the kitchen wants to keep things simple and let the grill do the work. Below captured my 3rd and 4th visit.

Grilled squid and pork fat

Grilled trout, lentils

Grilled vension, bone sauce

Smoked pork jowl

Seabream Crudo, Mandarin, Kumquat

The grill dishes are clearly the backbone of ATLA’s identity, so naturally they set the tone for the entire meal. Starting with smaller plates, the grilled squid come out first, slightly charred and carrying a smoky aroma that’s immediately appealing. The texture is right, tender with just enough bite, and the seasoning does its job without overwhelming the natural flavour, no wonder why this is such a popular dish. The Dover sole was average at best, I found the pepper and shellfish sauce lacked excitment, a sharper edge, maybe a touch more acidity or spice, could have lifted the dish from good to memorable. The grilled lamb chop was the best of the lot. It’s juicy, evenly cooked, and carries a gentle smokiness that works in its favour. The surface has a decent crisp to it, and the fat rendered just right, I am a fan.  

Lamb chop, Salsa Verde, Seaweed

Dover sole, pepper and seafood sauce

Grilled Mackerel, pil pil

Ratte Potatoes, Mojo Verde Butter

Basque cheesecake

By the time you step back and look at the overall experience, ATLA feels like a restaurant that knows what it’s doing but hasn’t quite found its edge. The grill work is competent across the board. Nothing is badly cooked, and there’s a clear understanding of technique. But there’s a consistent sense of playing it safe. That said, it’s still an easy place to recommend in the right context. If you’re meeting friends, want a comfortable setting, and are in the mood for solid, well-executed grilled food without surprises, ATLA delivers. It’s dependable. I still think it could get better as I found my second visit was very enjoyable, so picking the right dishes has a big factor too.

Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£70


Ground Floor, Kingly Ct, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW

https://alta-restaurant.com/