Row on 5

Best of 2 stars in London

Oyster and caviar

Founded by serial restaurateur and chef Jason Atherton, the tasting menu only, fine dining concept champions British ingredients with a Japanese influence. Row on 5 feels like the kind of restaurant you arrive at already knowing you’re going to be taken care of, and then it quietly exceeds that expectation. The staff move with an ease that instantly puts you at rest, reading the table well, explaining when you want detail, and stepping back when you don’t. There’s a sense of purpose without pressure, which sets the tone for the meal. From the moment you sit down, moving from one room to another, time seems to slow slightly. The pacing is thoughtful, the room hums rather than buzzes, and you feel encouraged to settle in rather than rush through an experience.

Cheese and onion

Fatty tuna

Crab and roe

Hand dived scallop

Langoustine sabayon

The cooking itself is where Row on 5 truly earns its reputation. This is high-level, technically precise food. The meal kicked off with a selection of canapes in the bar space. Each dish feels carefully considered, not just on its own, but as part of a wider narrative across the menu, which has a seafood theme around it, from tuna, cockles, to langoustine. Ingredients are treated with respect, and there is a noticeable absence of unnecessary flourishes. Instead, the kitchen relies on precision and balance to create impact. For the main dishes, flavours are clean and clearly defined, allowing you to appreciate the quality of the produce and the thought behind each combination. The standout dish was a Singapore lobster, cooked to perfection with a peppery umami tone, yet it had a soft sweetness; it was pure magic. Another high-class dish was the Sika deer, cooked with beetroot and juniper, a very classic combination but somehow done at a level that is as good as any 3 stars kitchen in London.

Seabass 'au poivre'

Singapore lobster

Japanese bread and butter

Deer and wild berries

Cheese and truffle

Melon and shaved ice

Even the smaller details, like the petit four service or a simple pre-dessert, are treated with the same care as the main event. It’s the kind of meal where you find yourself slowing down, taking smaller bites, not because you’re full, but because you don’t want it to end too quickly. Row on 5 doesn’t rely on drama or gimmicks to make its point. Its strength lies in consistency, confidence, and an unwavering focus on how the guest feels throughout the meal. It’s the kind of restaurant you think about days later, not because of one standout dish, but because the entire experience lingered with you. In a city full of remarkable dining rooms, Row on 5 stands out by being calm, assured, and genuinely exceptional. An outstanding restaurant in the truest sense of the word.

Food 4.5/5


What I paid: 
£320 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£250

5 Savile Row, London W1S 3PB

https://www.rowon5london.com/