Moi

Japanese grill king

Baked Rice, Wild Mushrooms, Cacklebean Egg Yolk

Moi in Soho doesn’t try to ease you in gently. From the moment you step through the door, it feels like you’ve walked into something alive, something a little electric. The room hums with energy, not just from the crowd but from the open grill itself, where flames flicker and flare like part of the performance. You can smell it before you even sit down, that deep, smoky richness that only real fire cooking can deliver. While Moi also does great cold dishes such as sushi and rolls, what really makes this place stand out is the grill dishes. The menu leans heavily into the grill, and rightly so. It’s the beating heart of the kitchen. What stands out is the precision behind the intensity. Nothing feels careless or overdone.

Porthilly Oyster, Sweet Sake, Finger Lime

Cornish Squid, Watercress & Radish

Hereford Beef Tartare, Mustard, Egg yolk

Tempura Octopus, Wild Garlic

Trout, tuna, scallop, red mullet, grey mullet and squid

Morels, asparagus and peas

Grilling fish is notoriously tricky. It’s easy to dry it out, to lose its natural sweetness, or to overpower it with smoke. Here, none of that happens. The brill arrives with skin that’s beautifully blistered and crisp, carrying just enough char to add depth without masking the freshness underneath. Break into it, and the flesh is perfectly tender, still moist, still delicate. There’s a clarity of flavor that stands out immediately. You can actually taste the fish, not just the grill. That balance is everything. Then there’s the lamb shoulder, which is where Moi really leans into boldness. The lamb comes off the grill with a dark, caramelised crust that locks in flavor, the kind of sear that makes you pause for a second before even taking a bite. And when you do, it delivers. The meat is juicy, rich, and deeply savoury, with that unmistakable smokiness running all the way through. It is easily the best lamb I have had in 2026.

Grilled brill, peas and clams

BBQ lamb shoulder with yakiniku suace

Tuna tataki

Tuna belly

Grilled leek and sesame

Yoghurt kakigori

By the end of the meal, it’s clear that this isn’t just a good restaurant. It’s an outstanding one. The grill isn’t just a feature; it’s a philosophy, and every dish reflects that. What’s particularly exciting is the way the grill transforms the texture. You get crisp edges, soft centres, and that slight chew that makes each bite feel substantial without ever tipping into toughness. It’s satisfying in a way that lingers. Even after you’ve finished, you’re still thinking about it. There’s skill, there’s energy, and most importantly, there’s flavor that actually excites you. It leaves an impression, the kind that makes you want to come back not just to eat, but to experience it all over again. No wonder this is already my 5th visit.

Food 4/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£85

84 Wardour St, London W1F 0TQ

https://moirestaurant.com/