Wednesday, 21 January 2026

The Cocochine

The finest British ingredient showcase


Ceylon King Crab Salad, Consommé, Apple


Walking into The Cocochine in Mayfair feels less like entering a restaurant and more like stepping into a carefully composed mood. The room is calm, softly lit, and has a 'very Mayfair' club vibe. Co-owned by chef Larry Jayasekaram, the cooking respects tradition without being trapped by it and embraces refinement without losing warmth, thanks to Larry's light touch of his Sri Lankan roots. It appeals to diners who value craft and comfort in equal measure. Reason being it has access directly in the food supply chain, as another co-owner has an Island in Scotland for seafood and a farm in Northamptonshire for meat and vegetables. It has recently replaced its ALC offering with a tasting menu, which I feel is the right approach that enables Larry to be more playful in his cooking.


Bread

Scottish langoustine, artichoke, seafood bisque

XXL Scottish scallop, mushrooms, pandan


The meal kicked off with some serious seafood dishes. A langoustine course arrives perfectly cooked, the flesh tender and clean, seasoned just enough to bring out its natural sweetness. Accompaniments support rather than compete. A light spiced butter sauce adds freshness and depth without masking the main ingredient, and a few carefully chosen garnishes provide contrast in texture and temperature. When richer courses arrive, they do so with balance. A Sika deer dish is deeply flavoured but never heavy, with fat rendered properly and a chocolate sauce that offers just the right level of bitterness. Even the beetroot garnish is spot on. The beetroot retained its character, cooked to highlight its natural bite and sweetness, with subtle seasoning that enhances rather than transforms.

Raviolo of lobster, lemongrass, lime

Sika deer, coconut, bitter chocolate

Millefeuille, watalappam


Another top-notch meal by the Cocochine team. The presentation is elegant but never theatrical. Plates look considered, not styled for photographs. The food smells inviting before it even touches the table, which is often the first sign that the kitchen understands appetite, not just aesthetics. The pacing of the meal is equally thoughtful. Courses arrive when you are ready for them, not according to some rigid timetable. It is not a restaurant that relies on shock or trend-driven ideas to stand out. Instead, it builds its reputation on consistency, care, and an understanding of what makes dining out feel special. In a neighborhood like Mayfair, where luxury can sometimes feel performative, The Cocochine offers something more grounded, while cooked with some top-class ingredients that can rival any Michelin-starred venues in London.


Food 4.5/5


What I paid: 
£260 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£189


27 Bruton Pl, London W1J 6NQ

https://www.thecocochine.com/ 

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