Chef Ben's new gig in London
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| Lobster, pumpkin, yuzu |
74 Charlotte Street by Ben Murphy arrives in Fitzrovia with an easy confidence: a soft, deliberately understated dining room downstairs and a street-level bar that’s already being talked about as somewhere to linger. The site wears its history lightly; it’s the space that once housed Mere, so it is easy to compare, since both trade as modern European fine dining restaurants. On the menu, Ben Murphy’s food sits in that same register: classically trained technique steered toward accessible flavours, with a few playful flourishes to catch your eye.
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| Pigeon, orange, turnip |
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| Iberico pork, carrot, baby gem |
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| Vension, celeriac, earl grey |
The meal kicked off with some strong starters, both the lobster and pigeon dishes were total winners as each plate showed technical precision, tasteful seasoning, and a pleasing interplay of flavours. The Iberian pork was another outstanding dish, rich and cooked just right. I really enjoyed the carrot element, which offered a soft, earthy, sweet taste that worked wonders with the pork. The deer was the weak point for me, the meat lacked flavours, and I failed to taste any Earl Grey element despite it being listed on the dish. The side dish of beef fat chips was also forgettable; it was too dry and felt like the crunch level was just too hard.
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| Peri peri chips and charred hispi |
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| Apple crumble soufflé, oats |
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| Chocolate tart, hazelnut, praline |
What gives the whole project its likable, if slightly conservative tenor is coherence: the room, the bar, the menu, and the service all point to the same purpose — a quietly elevated neighbourhood restaurant. As not everything worked for me, the opening doesn’t quite deliver a “must-visit” knock-out that would rise above the many excellent options in London right now. If you live nearby or you want a smart, easy evening out with good drinks and well-made food, it’s a solid choice, and this place would only get better, I am sure.
Food 3.5/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£75
74 Charlotte St., London W1T 4QH
https://74charlottestreet.com/
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