Another legend in the making?
 |
| Celeriac, Royale Oscietra caviar, allium, hazelnut |
Bonheur by Matt Abé arrives in Mayfair with the quiet confidence of someone who has spent nearly two decades learning how to make the exceptional look effortless. Housed at 43 Upper Brook Street in the very building that once sheltered Le Gavroche, the restaurant signals both a respect for British fine-dining heritage and a desire to start a new chapter. Bonheur opened in early November 2025 as Matt Abé’s first solo venture after a long career under Gordon Ramsay and others, and the project is backed by Ramsay himself, who secured a long lease on the premises — a level of institutional support that helps explain the impeccably choreographed service and the resources poured into the dining room.
 |
| Isle of Skye Scallop, carrot, clementine, yuzu kosho |
 |
| Quail Blanquette, Jerusalem artichoke, black garlic, malt |
 |
| Cornish Monkfish, Violina pumpkin, buttermilk, rapeseed |
On the plate, Abé’s aesthetic reads as classical French technique refracted through a quietly British lens: purity of flavour, obsessive sourcing, and a willingness to let a single heroic ingredient take centre stage. A Scallop starter got off to a great start, the carrot and yuzu combo delivered a sweet and sour tone that lifted up the umami essence of the scallop brilliantly. My main was a long-matured beef, a 125-day-aged Cumbrian Blue Grey sirloin was handled respectfully and served with accompaniments that support rather than overwhelm, proof that the kitchen can both age and plate to advantage. Textural contrasts are a through-line: an amuse-bouche of creamy, saline notes followed by crisply seared fish with bright, acidic lifting, and desserts that favour nutty, roasted depths over syrupy sweetness.
 |
| 125 Day Aged Cumbrian Blue Grey potato, parsley, smoked bone marrow |
 |
| Aynhoe Park Fallow Deer beetroot, pine, blackberry |
 |
| Pecan Praline Pedro Ximénez, coffee, cocoa nib |
Service could be better, as I witnessed rocky errors like giving me a steak knife for my fish course and spilled water while pouring. judging the food alone, if Bonheur’s ambition is to be both a respectful custodian of a legendary site and a proving ground for a chef’s personal vision, the early evidence is promising: the place is comfortable enough for a celebratory dinner and precise enough to attract the kind of diners who care about provenance, ageing, and the subtle alchemy of sauce, salt and smoke. In short, Bonheur is a confident debut — one that delivers many small, memorable pleasures and, crucially, gives the sense that the best of Matt Abé may still be ahead of him.
Food 4/5
What I paid: £255 per person with wine
Average cost without drinks and services: £175
43 Upper Brook St, London W1K 7QR
No comments:
Post a Comment