Portland

Casual fine dining star experience

Honey-glazed Sladesdown duck. Young turnips, black cardamom & lemon

Portland is part of a collection of British restaurants under the Wood Head Group, which also owns the much-celebrated Quality Chop House. I first encountered Portland when it was newly launched back in 2015, and I was really impressed. While it was in a casual, informal setting, the food quality was at fine dining level and it soon gained a Michelin star. 6 years later, I returned to Portland, many things have changed. The then head chef who won the Michelin star has left. Social distancing measure means fewer tables and there now is a tasting menu at £75, and that is what I opted for. Given ALC cost £65, it just seems like a no-brainer to add a few more dosh to have the complete Portland dining experience.

Asparagus and hollandaise

Miso-glazed aubergine, sesame & pickled radish
Parmesan & mushroom macaron
Chicken liver parfait, brioche, date & yuzu

Buckwheat galette. Fresh peas, herbs & Golden Cross

The meal kicked off with a trio of canapés, and I found the Parmesan & mushroom macaron the most enjoyable and very appetising, it had a smooth mushroom and truffle paste, topped with a good amount of black truffle and Parmesan. The grilled Cornish mackerel which sat in tomato dashi was another solid dish, the bold rich flavour of the fish worked wonders with the strong umami taste of the dashi, with the tomato added a touch of freshness and balance. The clear winner however was the honey-glazed spiced duck. Cooked perfectly with a nice depth of earthy taste, super moist, and well seasoned with a killer meat jus. The duck heart was so tender and matched well with the turnips, sensational. 

Cornish mackerel. Tomato dashi & radishes

Gigha halibut. Sea herbs, sambaizu butter & trout roe

Wild strawberries. Sorrel granita, chamomile & yoghurt sorbet

If I have to pick up a negative element, it would be the dessert. I felt it didn't match the savory dishes in quality. It was just some granita and sorbet combined together, and it was served too cold, well beyond the usual ice cream/ sorbet temperature. Having said that, there is a lot to like about Portland, the informal, relaxing setting, makes this place for a great casual gathering but at a high-quality, reasonably priced fine dining experience. The wine was also really great value for money, the house white wine Alsace ‘19 at a cost of just £5, it was some of the finest wine I have encountered at that price range. So all in all, a great Michelin star dining experience for sure.

Food 4/5

What I paid:
£101 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£75 (Tasting menu)

113 Great Portland St, London W1W 6QQ

https://portlandrestaurant.co.uk/