Saturday 14 October 2023

Kitchen Table

The peak of counter fine dining in London


Kitchen Table


Kitchen Table experienced a bit of a whirlwind since it reopened after Covid. With price got increased to £350 at one point it has dropped down to 
£200 recently due to lack of demand. Personally, I always enjoyed my encounters at Kitchen Table so I was glad I was able to head back. Just be prepared you are here in the long run, as dinner starts at around 6pm and you wouldn't finish till 11pm due to the menu format where you have both the canapes and petit four in its bar zone, and in between you will be eating about 10 course of food in its main kitchen counter dining room.


Oyster, shiso

Chicken skin with bacon jam, smoked eel and green apple

Parker house roll and trout roe butter

Scallop, gooseberries and almond

Lobster, mango, curry, peanut

Agnolotti, peas, mint and ham


The house classic is the chicken skin and bacon jam and I was happy it is still on the menu. Inspired by KFC, the crunchiness of the salted chicken skin, along with the savoury profile of the bacon got my taste bud dancing, it was such a comforting snack. I think the best dish of the lot was a diced Cornish lobster dish served in a curry sauce, which also had a hint of mango and peanut, I found the balance of flavours was exceptional in this dish, everything worked in perfect harmony and I could still taste the sweetness of the lobster. The lamb rump was the last savoury dish and it ended on a high, cooked to perfection and the richness of the black garlic and the cleanness of the basil uplifted the umami taste of the lamb so well.

Beef, garlic, girolle and parmsen

Lamb rump, basil, black garlic

Cheese and peach tartatin

Strawberries rice pudding

Cheery cheesecake

Chocolate tart and canele

Overall. I found Kitchen Table's whole story of price reduction was not really a reduction, they simply downgraded the quality of ingredients to balance back off the cost, no more truffle, no caviar or fish course on my visit. However, if I look beyond that, the cooking was still at a really high level, and the flavours were remarkable, with things like the lobster and lamb dish wouldn't look out of place in any other 2-star restaurant. As far as counter dining goes in London, I think Kitchen Table is still the best out there.


Food 4.5/5


Average cost without drinks and services:

£200

70 Charlotte St, Bloomsbury, London W1T 4QG


https://kitchentablelondon.co.uk/

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