How Great British Cuisine Should be
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All the chicken: Roasted chicken, chicken pies and legs |
I last visited The Grill at The Dorchester back last Christmas, and since then it had a massive change as it has recently rebranded to The Grill by Tom Booton, as Tom has now been promoted to be the executive chef of the restaurant. The menu also switched from a 4-course ALC format, to a more informal 3-course all-day dining ALC offering, along with a range of pre-starter snacks. Tom's style of cooking is just what I enjoy: bold and rich. So I was excited to return for the 9th time to see what he has got to offer from his brand new menu.
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Lamb, potato and leek |
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Skatewing, shrimps and lemon |
Skatewing is a rare item in UK restaurants these days but I am so glad it is on the menu at The Grill. The fish was cooked to perfection, so buttery smooth and rich. The brown shrimp and lemon sauce delivered a lovely sweet seafood aroma, it was fish cooking at the highest level. The new house special: 'All the chicken' is just what it is, a whole roasted chicken shared on a board with no waste. All the off-cut went into 4 mini chicken pies and the legs and wings cooked on the grill with a BBQ sauce dressing. The main part of the chicken was really something, so moist and tender that I could cut it with a spoon instead of a knife. I don't recall having such a high-level roasted chicken dish anywhere else, it was stunning.
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Grilled monkish, ceps and lingonberries |
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Bread and butter pudding |
The new menu at The Grill appeared to be more casual and simple, but it still carried the same signature taste of Tom's cooking, rich and bold British flavours. Great food doesn't need to be complex, as long as it leverages good ingredients with proper cooking execution, it is good enough for me. The price is your typical 5-star hotel Mayfair price, but I feel given the quality of the cooking, along with very attentive service in such a lovely and grand dining room, it is fair.
Food 4/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£80
53 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1QA
https://www.dorchestercollection.com
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