Friday, 22 August 2025

The Devonshire Soho

Meaty gastropub goodness 


Scallops in vinegar and bacon


The Devonshire in Soho isn’t just another London gastropub—it’s a meticulous revival of the classic British public house, elevated with chef-grade precision and obsessive attention to detail. Helmed by hospitality veteran Oisín Rogers and chef Ashley Palmer-Watts (ex-Fat Duck), it operates as a dual experience: a rowdy, soul-warming pub downstairs and a quietly confident grill restaurant above. The Devonshire sources with intention: dry-aged native breeds butchered in-house. For my 4th visit, I went for all the classic dishes that have been around since day 1, as they are classic for a reason.

Osteria Angelina

 Italian‑Japanese Fusion with Flair


Tomato and seaweed salad


Osteria Angelina
, the latest outpost from the team behind Dalston’s acclaimed Angelina, takes root in Shoreditch with a bold promise: to fuse the soul of an Italian osteria with the precision and umami‑rich palette of Japanese cooking, tucked inside a restored Victorian warehouse just off Norton Folgate. Where the original Angelina offered tightly curated tasting menus, this Shoreditch sibling widens the lens with a more expansive à la carte menu, inviting guests to build their own journey through small plates, handmade pastas, and grilled mains.

Duchy

Duchy of Savoy in the land of Shoreditch

 

BBQ John Dorey in shellfish sauce


Duchy is a new restaurant in Shoreditch, the sleek new incarnation of Leroy, which was located on the same site. Duchy comes with a different approach that brings northern Italian‑French flair to East London. The interiors are mostly inherited from Leroy—minimalist without sterility, a touch of rustic warmth, the sound of a needle slipping onto wax. The open kitchen, where Simon Shand and his team work in full view, is a stage with no curtain, just steam, speed, and focused motion. The name “Duchy” is more than a title—it’s a hint at the culinary axis here: the historic Duchy of Savoy, whose former borders map perfectly onto the flavours of southeastern France and northwestern Italy.

Monday, 18 August 2025

Sushi Kyu

Best value omakase experience in London


Horse mackerel


Hidden away on Soho’s Brewer Street, Sushi Kyu offers an omakase experience that feels worlds apart from the bustle outside. With only ten seats wrapped around a pale hinoki-wood counter, this is not the kind of sushi bar that leans on theatrics or showmanship; the atmosphere is meditative, almost hushed, with the chef’s movements providing the only real drama. The food itself is where Sushi Kyu sets itself apart from many of its London peers. The omakase menus—£74.80 for dinner or £51.80 at lunch—strike a sweet spot between accessibility and luxury, especially when compared to Mayfair’s eye-watering sushi counters.

The Knave of Clubs

Comfort pub food with an edge


Prawn scotch egg


Shoreditch has no shortage of trendy pubs and polished gastropubs. For a new pub, The Knave of Clubs possesses a confident vintage—an aesthetic of pedigree and purpose—yet it doesn’t feel forced or nostalgic. This newly opened spot on Hackney Road has an old-school boozer vibe, but has a strong focus on its food offering, helped by the fact that it has been developed by chef legend Patrick Powell. It is not just another place for overpriced pints and average burgers. It’s aiming for something smarter, sharper, and mostly, it delivers.

Andanza

 A cozy tapas haven with Basque flair


Foie Gras, Sweet Sherry Reduction


Andanza sits tucked just behind London Bridge station on Weston Street, in a restored former William Hill bookie. The space is small—about 30 seats including counter-bars and a few high tables—styled in rustic‑chic tones with carved oak, leather banquettes, bare floorboards and vintage Spanish prints. The menu blends authentic Basque‑style pintxos with classic Spanish tapas; you are encouraged to order between 3 to 4 dishes per person for sharing.