The Knave of Clubs

Comfort pub food with an edge

Prawn scotch egg

Shoreditch has no shortage of trendy pubs and polished gastropubs. For a new pub, The Knave of Clubs possesses a confident vintage—an aesthetic of pedigree and purpose—yet it doesn’t feel forced or nostalgic. This newly opened spot on Hackney Road has an old-school boozer vibe, but has a strong focus on its food offering, helped by the fact that it has been developed by chef legend Patrick Powell. It is not just another place for overpriced pints and average burgers. It’s aiming for something smarter, sharper, and mostly, it delivers.

House-roasted chicken

I enjoyed Patrick's take on Scotch egg that used prawn with a sweet chilli jam. This is the beauty of modern pub food: interesting and refreshing while retaining an old-school element. Less good, however, were the fishcakes, decent enough but nothing to sing home about. What I really enjoyed was the rolled porchetta. Stuffed with plenty of herbs and boasting a killer, crispy crackling, it was also incredibly tender, making it easily the best dish on the menu. The house special roasted chicken was also beautiful, well above your average pub-level roasted chicken.

Porchetta

For everything it does, The Knave of Clubs isn’t trying to redefine fine dining or pub culture—it’s attempting to fuse the best of both. It tells a story through walls, dishes, pours, and people, and leaves room for yours. It’s not perfect—if you’re steeped in pub nostalgia, the lack of live music nights or darts teams may sting. If you are here for a good pint with some fine comfort food to match, then you can't go wrong with The Knave of Clubs.

Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£35


25 Bethnal Grn Rd, London E1 6HT

https://www.theknaveofclubs.co.uk/