Duchy

Duchy of Savoy in the land of Shoreditch

 

BBQ John Dorey in shellfish sauce

Duchy is a new restaurant in Shoreditch, the sleek new incarnation of Leroy, which was located on the same site. Duchy comes with a different approach that brings northern Italian‑French flair to East London. The interiors are mostly inherited from Leroy—minimalist without sterility, a touch of rustic warmth, the sound of a needle slipping onto wax. The open kitchen, where Simon Shand and his team work in full view, is a stage with no curtain, just steam, speed, and focused motion. The name “Duchy” is more than a title—it’s a hint at the culinary axis here: the historic Duchy of Savoy, whose former borders map perfectly onto the flavours of southeastern France and northwestern Italy.

Brown Crab Arancini

Chicken and mushrooms

The brown crab arancino from the snack range was very addictive, one perfectly formed sphere on a slick of saffron aioli, the rice inside so delicately bound it might collapse under a fork if you wait too long. A grilled John Dorey dish was done well, nice smoky aroma while the fish cooked just right, it was swimming in a lobster sauce which delivered a lovely sweet shellfish flavour. The last savory dish was a lamb shoulder, and it was also the best dish of the evening. The meat and the ratatouille's flavours merged in harmony; it was blessed with such a powerful tomato and meaty taste, just the kind of dish I appreciate on a summer day.

Lamb shoulder, ratatouille

Raspberry Bombe Alaska

As the evening winds down and the music deepens into late-night soul, it’s easy to see why Duchy is already drawing return visits. It’s not just a replacement for Leroy—it’s a new Shoreditch staple. And in a part of London where restaurants can sometimes feel like concept showrooms rather than places to eat. Duchy honours the soul of Leroy (and is doing a better job already) while charting new territory—Italian‑French cuisine at its best, in a vibrant setting with strong drinks and friendly service. It hits that sweet spot: unpretentious enough for everyday dining, adventurous enough to feel special. A Shoreditch gem. 

Food 3.5/5


What I paid: 
£100 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£75

18 Phipp St, London EC2A 4NU

https://www.duchyrestaurant.com/