Worth the hype?
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| Bone in ribeye |
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Soho, The Devonshire offers a quintessential British pub experience with a light modern touch. It has become one of the most popular and hyped gastropubs in London since its launch in the winter of 2023. I visited in the early days and it didn't impress me with some rocky errors on overcooked meat. 1 year later, booking a table is almost mission impossible. Known for its inviting atmosphere and hearty food using top-class ingredients with an in-house butcher, this pub has earned a reputation as a go-to spot for casual dining. I returned twice in the winter of 2024 to see if much had changed.
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| Crab and apple salad |
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| Iberico pork ribs grilled with honey |
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| Diver scallops with bacon and vinegar |
For both occasions, I went for scallops cooked over fire with vinegar and bacon, the cooking was spot on and, the sweetness of the scallops created a good balance with the rich yet sharp profile of the sauce. For steak, I had both the bone in ribeye and T bone. The ribeye was easily better thanks to its evenly spread out fattiness, the meat itself was nicely charred to a crispy level, very smoky and smelled so good. It was great quality steak but I did find Ibai's steak just edge it all form, from aroma to texture and taste.
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| Peas soup |
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| T bone steak with salad and duck fat chips |
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| Orange liqueur souffle with vanilla ice cream |
The service was friendly and attentive without being overbearing. Despite the pub being busy, staff made sure plates were cleared promptly, and drinks were refilled without a long wait. It was a big improvement vs my first visit. The cooking was spot on and I like the fact it was kept simple too. I feared that given it was such a busy place, the standard might drop but on both occasions, it was very smooth. Would I return? Absolutely. The Devonshire strikes the perfect balance between traditional pub fare and modern dining, making it a standout in Soho’s crowded culinary scene.
Food 3.5/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£75
17 Denman St, London W1D 7HW
https://www.devonshiresoho.co.uk/
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