Impala

Refreshing, one-of-a-kind  

Kibbeh of white crab and sun dried wheat wrapped in shiso leaf

Few restaurant openings in London have generated quite as much anticipation this year as Impala in Soho. The North-African-inspired venue embraces the unpredictability of open flames, creating dishes that feel instinctive rather than overly engineered. What makes Impala particularly compelling is its willingness to present combinations that initially sound unconventional but reveal themselves to be remarkably coherent once they reach the table. There is an adventurous spirit running throughout the menu, yet it never crosses into novelty for novelty's sake. Instead, every unusual pairing appears carefully tested and thoughtfully balanced.

Pastilla, cull yaw pastry with pickled walnut

Molokhia, cull yaw

Grilled short rib with rosemary and pepper

The menu rewards adventurous ordering, and while almost every dish offers something worth discussing, one creation rises unmistakably above the rest. The standout dish at Impala is undoubtedly the roasted duck, a masterclass in balancing bold influences with remarkable finesse. Glazed in rich molasses, the duck develops a beautifully lacquered skin with deep caramelised notes, while remaining succulent and intensely flavourful beneath. A luscious fig sauce adds gentle sweetness and acidity, complementing rather than overpowering the meat. Inspired by Cantonese roasted duck, the dish carries unmistakable echoes of its savoury depth, yet reinterprets the classic through refined French technique and vibrant African flavours. The result is a sophisticated, unexpected plate that feels both familiar and entirely original, perfectly capturing Impala's adventurous culinary identity.

Duck roasted in molasses with wild blackberries

Monkfish wrapped in grape leaves and goat horn pepper

Date and pistachio tart

In a dining scene where new restaurants often compete by chasing the latest trend or reinventing familiar formulas, Impala feels refreshingly different. Perhaps the greatest compliment that can be paid to Impala is that its popularity feels entirely deserved. London's restaurant scene has become increasingly influenced by social media, where visual impact often outweighs culinary substance, yet Impala succeeds because the excitement extends well beyond attractive photographs. The food genuinely delivers on the expectations created online, and in many cases exceeds them. It offers something increasingly valuable: originality that is grounded in exceptional cooking rather than clever marketing. Diners leave discussing flavours instead of simply décor, recalling combinations they have never previously encountered and debating which dishes surprised them most.

Food 4/5

What I paid: £120 per person with wine

Average cost without drinks and services: £80

13-14 Dean St, London W1D 3RS

https://impalasoho.com/