Igni

Is it better than Humo? 

Canapes

Igni arrives in Mayfair carrying both the advantages and burdens of its predecessor. Until recently, this elegant St George Street address housed Humo, the fire-led restaurant that earned considerable acclaim for its theatrical approach to wood-fired cooking and briefly secured a Michelin star before disappearing almost as quietly as it had arrived. Rather than attempting a gentle refresh, the owners have opted for something more radical. Under the direction of chef Theo Clench, Humo has been extinguished and reborn as Igni, a tasting-menu-only concept that retains the original obsession with flame while pursuing a more refined, seafood-focused identity. The room itself remains largely familiar: the striking open kitchen still dominates proceedings, guests still sit within sight of glowing embers and carefully stacked timber, and fire remains the restaurant's central narrative.

Oyster and cucumber

Tuna, foie and shiso

Dashi, seaweed butter and bread

Asparagus and seaweed

Scallop, maple, myoga

The asparagus and seaweed dish had a vivid grassy freshness. What makes the dish exceptional is not merely the quality of its components but the balance achieved between them. Fire is present, but almost invisibly so. There is a subtle smokiness that seems woven into the background rather than imposed upon the ingredients. The asparagus provides bitterness, sweetness and crunch in carefully measured proportions. The meal reaches its clear high point with a scallop and ginger dish that ranks among the finest plates currently being served in London. Hand-dived scallops have become something of a cliché within tasting menus, appearing so frequently that many chefs struggle to make them feel interesting, but Igni manages exactly that. The scallop arrives cooked with astonishing precision, carrying just enough heat to firm the flesh while preserving its natural sweetness and delicate texture. The low point for me was the duck; despite the aging and spot-on cooking temperature, it tasted ordinary and lacked any richness.

Turbot, sake and lettuces

Duck, dashi and umeboshi

Apple sorbet

Tofu and chocolate

P4

Besides the duck, there is a criticism to be made, it is that a few courses blur together stylistically. The relentless pursuit of subtlety occasionally means that dishes occupy similar flavour registers (the tuna dish is a great example), creating stretches of the meal where distinction becomes less pronounced. There are moments when one wishes for a little more contrast, a little more risk, or perhaps a little more of the wild energy that characterised Humo in its earlier incarnation. The question, then, is whether Igni justifies its considerable cost. This is where admiration becomes slightly more complicated. London is hardly short of expensive tasting menus, particularly in Mayfair, and diners entering this rarefied territory inevitably begin comparing experiences rather than individual dishes. At around the current market rate for ambitious fine dining, Igni positions itself among some serious competition. The cooking is undoubtedly accomplished, the room is attractive, and the service is professional. Yet there remains a sense that the pricing occasionally outruns the experience being delivered.  

Food 3.5/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£175

12 St George St, London W1S 2FB

https://ignilondon.com/