Island

Work in progress 

Grilled lamb belly and squid

Island arrives in King's Cross with serious pedigree and equally serious ambition. Backed by two Michelin-starred chefs (Tom Brown and Brad Carter), the restaurant promises a playful, premium take on surf and turf, combining top-quality seafood and carefully sourced meat in a stylish, energetic setting that feels designed as much for celebration as it does for dinner.  The menu avoids playing it safe, encouraging diners to order broadly and share across the table, which adds to the social atmosphere. Not every experiment lands, however, and there are moments where the pursuit of novelty feels as though it has overtaken common sense.

Steak tartar

Scallop corndog

The scallop corn dog is the clearest example. While the idea sounds quirky and intriguing on paper, the execution leaves you wondering exactly what it wants to be. The delicate sweetness of the scallop struggles against the thick fried coating, resulting in something that feels more like a fairground snack than a refined seafood dish. At its price point (£15), it is difficult to justify. The Island Mix Grill is unquestionably the standout of the meal and the plate that best justifies the restaurant's reputation. Generous without being excessive, it showcases quality ingredients treated with respect. Especially the steak and chicken. It is the sort of dish designed for sharing but tempting enough to monopolise yourself. Sadly, the Banoffee Alaska struggles to provide the memorable finish that such an inventive name promises. Visually attractive, it nevertheless lacks the balance needed to tie its components together. It was just far too sweet, with a strange hard texture from the crumbs.

BBQ pork belly and crab slaw

Mix grill

Throughout the meal there is a recurring feeling that Island occasionally mistakes invention for value, with some plates carrying prices that seem a little ambitious even by central London standards. While the quality of the ingredients is generally high and the cooking technically accomplished, there is no escaping the sense that the restaurant is, at times, asking diners to pay a premium for the concept as much as the food. The biggest criticism is perhaps one of value. Island is undeniably a touch overpriced, and diners should be prepared for a bill that reflects not only the quality of the ingredients but also the prestige attached to the chefs behind the project and the fashionable King's Cross location. Whether that premium represents good value will depend on individual expectations.

Food 2.5/5

What I paid: £80 per person 

Average cost without drinks and services: £75

1st Floor, Mare Street Market, 2 Lewis Cubitt Walk, London N1C 4DY

https://island-restaurants.com/