The Horses Clerkenwell

A Proper Pub with a Seafood Ambition

Smoked mackerel

There is something reassuring about a good British pub, particularly one that understands that its appeal should extend beyond a decent pint and a bowl of crisps. The best examples manage to combine the warmth and informality of a traditional boozer with food that is genuinely worth making a trip for. The Horses in Clerkenwell is an interesting new addition to this category, arriving with a rather more ambitious proposition than your average neighbourhood local: a pub with a serious focus on British seafood, cooked with a distinctly classical sensibility. Seafood is the main attraction, with oysters, shellfish, smoked fish and whole fish taking centre stage, supported by familiar pub dishes and a handful of meat and vegetable options. The kitchen also works with independent suppliers and draws on produce from the group's own market garden in the Cotswolds, reinforcing its emphasis on sourcing. It is a proposition that makes considerable sense in an area with a strong culinary heritage and a discerning local crowd. Britain's seafood deserves more attention, and a pub that celebrates it through simple, confident cooking is a welcome idea.

Oysters

Clams and cockles

The undisputed highlight of my meal was the whole grilled John Dory, a dish that demonstrated just how effective the restaurant's straightforward approach can be when everything comes together. John Dory is a superb fish for grilling, with firm, delicate flesh and a flavour that is subtle enough to benefit from careful seasoning without requiring much intervention. The challenge is to cook it thoroughly while preserving its natural moisture, allowing the skin and exterior to develop enough character without drying out the flesh. Here, the kitchen got it right. But what elevated the dish from a good piece of grilled seafood to something genuinely memorable was the langoustine butter sauce. This was the element that took the John Dory to another level, adding richness, sweetness and a deeper shellfish character that worked beautifully with the delicate fish. Unfortunately, the experience was less exciting with the steamed pollock. To be fair, the fish was cooked perfectly well. The flesh was tender, the texture was as it should be, and there was nothing particularly wrong with the technical execution. My issue was that it simply did not offer enough to justify its price (£28). When served steamed, its naturally mild flavour and delicate texture require particularly thoughtful seasoning, sauce or accompanying elements to give the dish a convincing identity. Without that extra dimension, the result can feel rather plain.

Steamed pollock

Grilled John Dorey

Ultimately, The Horses is a solid gastropub with a clear identity and a great deal to like, even if my experience did not quite convince me that every dish delivers value for money. Its greatest strength is its commitment to seafood, supported by a cooking style that respects tradition rather than chasing novelty. However, I would like to see greater consistency in how that philosophy is applied. Simple cooking is not automatically good cooking, and a short description on a menu does not excuse a lack of flavour or character. If a restaurant chooses to present fish with minimal intervention, every component needs to count. Seasoning, sauce, texture and the inherent quality of the ingredient become more important, not less. he Horses is a good, dependable gastropub with an unusual and welcome seafood focus, attractive surroundings and a strong understanding of how to cook fish properly. It gets the fundamentals right, and that is no small achievement. It just needs to ensure that its simplicity consistently translates into something worth paying a little extra for.

Food 3/5

What I paid: 
£120 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£60

26-28 Ray St, London EC1R 3DJ

https://www.thehorsesec1.com/