Noble Rot Soho

 French-Inspired Cooking, Great Wine and a Very Good Roast Chicken

Roast Chicken, Morels & Vin Jaune, Riz au Pilaf

Noble Rot is one of those London restaurant names that carries a certain amount of credibility before you even walk through the door. What started life in 2013 as an independent magazine dedicated to wine, food and the creative arts has gradually evolved into one of the capital's most respected restaurant groups, built around an infectious passion for good cooking, interesting wines and a relaxed approach to dining. The formula proved successful enough to expand, with the Soho restaurant opening in 2020. The food concept is similarly straightforward, although the cooking is anything but ordinary. The kitchen draws on classical French techniques and broader European influences, with a particular affection for rich sauces, seasonal ingredients, quality meat and seafood. Having visited the group's Mayfair restaurant previously, which remains my favourite of the three, I was interested to see how Soho compared, as it has been 3 years since I last dined at the Soho site.

Smoked Eel, Celeriac Remoulade & Soft Boiled Egg

The Grilled Quail starter was an enjoyable plate. Grilling is an appropriate way to prepare it, bringing a little smokiness and savoury depth while allowing the natural flavour of the meat to remain prominent. The quail was cooked just fine, tender enough and with no obvious technical issues. What I particularly liked was the choice of garnishes. The Muscat grapes introduced a gentle sweetness and freshness, while the almond agrodolce brought a contrasting combination of nuttiness, acidity and sweetness. The main attraction of my meal was undoubtedly the roast chicken and Vin Jaune, which is effectively the flagship dish of Noble Rot Soho and one that has become synonymous with the restaurant. It is also a dish that has earned plenty of attention over the years. Noble Rot uses high-quality chicken sourced from France, and the difference is evident in the quality of the meat. There is a pleasing depth of flavour, a beautifully tender texture and the sort of natural richness that comes from starting with a genuinely good product. Vin jaune, the distinctive oxidative white wine from France's Jura region, has a wonderfully complex personality, offering nutty, savoury and slightly saline characteristics that work exceptionally well with poultry and mushrooms. It is a natural pairing, but executing it properly requires some skill. The sauce here is a killer. Rich, deeply flavoured and wonderfully rounded, it brings a luxurious quality to the chicken without simply relying on cream or butter for impact.

Grilled Quail with Muscat Grape & Almond Agrodolce

Overall, Noble Rot Soho delivers a very enjoyable dining experience, and there is plenty to admire about the restaurant beyond its famous roast chicken. The food is consistently well considered, the cooking has a strong classical foundation and the service contributes to an experience that feels polished without becoming stuffy. Noble Rot understands that dining should be as much about the atmosphere and hospitality as it is about what arrives on the plate. Its Soho location has a certain charm, with the building's history providing a sense of identity that a newer restaurant would struggle to replicate. It feels like a proper Soho restaurant, somewhere that encourages long lunches, good conversation and perhaps one more bottle of wine than you originally intended to order. Noble Rot Soho is a solid restaurant with good food, excellent service and a strong identity built around classical European cooking. It may not quite reach the heights of its Mayfair sibling in my book, but it comes close enough to make it one of Soho's more dependable destinations for a proper meal.

Food 3.5/5

Average cost without drinks and services:
£65 

2 Greek St, London W1D 4NB

https://noblerot.co.uk/restaurant/soho