Tavern

 Good but could be better

Pig skin and cod roe

Tavern arrives on Old Street with the kind of pedigree that immediately raises expectations. This is the latest venture from the team behind the Michelin-starred St Barts, replacing their former restaurant Nest with a concept that shifts away from tasting-menu precision towards something more approachable, nostalgic and unmistakably British. Executive chef Brendan Appleby and head chef Kirsty Easterbrook have brought with them the technical discipline and respect for ingredients that earned St Barts its acclaim, but here the ambition is channelled into the language of the British tavern: generous cooking, honest produce, nose-to-tail philosophy and dishes that celebrate the country's culinary traditions without falling into cliché. Expectations are therefore understandably high, and while much of Tavern delivers on that promise, the food itself proves to be a more uneven experience than the polished setting initially suggests. 

Courgette salad, Ricotta

Pork and octopus sausage

Pork & Octopus Sausage: On paper it is one of the menu's more intriguing combinations, blending land and sea through a traditional British format while embracing the restaurant's nose-to-tail ethos. In practice, however, it proves surprisingly ordinary. Salt overwhelms nearly every bite, masking whatever subtle sweetness the pork and delicate seafood notes might otherwise have offered. The standout of the evening is unquestionably the Gloucester Old Spot Pork Chop, a dish that demonstrates exactly why Tavern has attracted so much attention since opening. Thick-cut, expertly cooked and retaining impressive juiciness throughout, the pork showcases the exceptional quality of the produce while highlighting the kitchen's technical confidence. The meat develops a beautifully caramelised exterior that gives way to a tender, flavourful centre, with enough natural richness to stand proudly on its own.

Scallop in xo lobster butter

Pork chop, mustard and peach

There is tremendous potential here, supported by an experienced team, an inviting dining room and a philosophy that feels authentic rather than fashionable. Yet the execution is not consistently at the same level as the ambition. Some dishes reveal remarkable precision while others could benefit from greater restraint and refinement. None of these shortcomings are fundamental, and they feel more like the natural growing pains of an ambitious restaurant than structural problems. Tavern already possesses many of the qualities needed to become one of East London's most compelling British restaurants, but it has not quite reached that level across the board.

Food 3/5

What I paid: £80 per person 

Average cost without drinks and services: £70

374-378 Old Street, London, EC1V 9LT

https://www.tavernlondon.co.uk/