London opening of the year?
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| Clams, beans and cider cream |
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| Grilled Atlantic Prawns, Fenugreek & Black Lime Butter |
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| Aged beef burger in black pepper and cognac sauce |
The food is where Vesper really makes its case, particularly when Boxer’s creativity is matched by flavours that actually work together. There is imagination, but there is also balance. Seasonal produce is given room to shine, while sauces, spices and garnishes are used to push the flavour in another direction rather than simply decorate the plate. One of the standout dishes is the Grilled Atlantic Prawns, Fenugreek & Black Lime Butter, which is a stunning dish. The prawns themselves are substantial, sweet and beautifully suited to the grill, while the fenugreek brings an aromatic depth and the black lime adds a gentle sourness that cuts through the richness of the butter. It’s a combination that sounds slightly unconventional on paper but makes complete sense when you taste it. Vesper’s famous off-menu burger, available in limited numbers each service, carries some of the spirit Boxer established at Dove, with a substantial beef patty, rich cheese and a sauce designed for unapologetic indulgence. It’s the kind of dish that reminds you Vesper isn’t trying to be a serious restaurant in the conventional sense. It wants you to enjoy yourself.
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| Crab fat rice |
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| Cornish Bluefin Tuna Loin, Café De Paris Butter |
Vesper is fun, interesting and enjoyable, and there is plenty to admire in Jackson Boxer’s latest project. The strongest reason to visit is the cooking itself. When the restaurant gets the balance right, as it does with the grilled Atlantic prawns and the palourde clams, the results are genuinely exciting. The seasonal produce is treated with respect, the combinations show real creativity and the flavours have enough logic behind them to make the more unusual ideas work. Boxer has clearly built Vesper around the idea of pleasure rather than culinary theatre, and that makes it an easy restaurant to like. The setting helps, too. Exmouth Market is a natural fit, giving Vesper an energetic neighbourhood backdrop, while the interior manages to feel stylish without becoming intimidating. It has the atmosphere of a restaurant people will want to return to, whether for a full dinner, a few plates and drinks at the bar, or a casual lunch, and it will only get better.
Food 3.5/5
What I paid: £95 per person with wine
Average cost without drinks and services: £75
8-10 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QA





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