Zylia

 Greek-Cypriot Charm, but Not Quite the Full Mediterranean Experience

SHEFTALIA

Greek restaurants have been enjoying renewed attention in London, with diners increasingly drawn to charcoal-grilled meats, generous sharing plates and fresh salads. Into this landscape comes Zylia, a Greek-Cypriot restaurant in Covent Garden, just off the Strand and within easy reach of Covent Garden's theatre district. The restaurant is part of the wider Arcade development, a modern food-hall destination, although Zylia has its own entrance and a distinct identity rather than simply operating as another counter within a shared dining space. The menu follows a recognisable taverna structure, with small plates and dips, salads, grilled classics, larger sharing dishes and a handful of desserts. Sheftalia, pork souvlakia and lamb chops sit alongside Greek salad, grilled halloumi, aubergine dip and other staples. The restaurant's inclusion in the 2026 Michelin Guide also suggests that its ambitions have attracted attention beyond the usual tourist crowd. Yet a strong concept and an appealing backstory are only the starting point. What matters is how well the kitchen translates that idea onto the plate, and whether the food delivers enough character to distinguish Zylia from the many Greek restaurants scattered across London.

SPANAKOPITA STACK

CHOPPED GREEN SALAD

The meal began with the chopped green salad, a dish that should have been one of the simplest successes of the evening. Zylia's version has the ingredients to deliver freshness and fragrance. Unfortunately, the dressing was far too heavy on the vinegar, and the acidity overwhelmed everything else. Thankfully, the sheftalia was considerably more successful and emerged as the better dish of the meal. These traditional Cypriot parcels, made with seasoned minced pork wrapped in caul fat. The fat helps protect the meat during cooking while contributing flavour and allowing the exterior to develop an appealing grilled character. The grilled lamb chops, which were decent but ultimately disappointing for the price. My issue was not that the chops were badly cooked or unpleasant to eat. They were perfectly acceptable, and there was nothing fundamentally wrong with the dish. The problem was that they did not deliver anything especially memorable, particularly given the price. At almost £50 for a few pieces of meat, the cost felt very high, even by London's standards. The chops were decent, but they did not make me feel that I was eating something special enough to warrant the expense. There is a difference between a dish being authentically simple and a dish feeling underwhelming, and the lamb sat uncomfortably close to the latter.

PORK SOUVLAKIA

LAMB CHOPS

Unfortunately, my experience was a mixed one. There were glimpses of the restaurant's potential, particularly in the grilled pork, but the meal lacked the consistency and excitement needed to make it a destination in its own right. Across the capital, there are Greek restaurants offering excellent grilled meats, generous sharing plates and a stronger sense of value, from casual neighbourhood spots to more ambitious dining rooms. Zylia therefore faces a challenge beyond simply delivering authentic Greek-Cypriot food: it needs to provide a compelling reason to choose it over those alternatives. Its Covent Garden location is convenient for theatre-goers and visitors exploring the West End, and its setting makes it an appealing option for a casual meal before or after a show. Yet convenience alone cannot carry a restaurant, particularly when the prices suggest a more elevated experience.

Food 2.5/5

What I paid: 
£45 per head

Average cost without drinks and services:
£40

6 Bedford St, London WC2E 9HZ

https://zyliataverna.com/