Pyro

 Greek open fire concept

Coal-seared prawns, Greek salad

Pyro is the kind of restaurant that immediately gives you something to talk about. Set around the London Bridge area, this open-fire Greek restaurant takes a familiar Mediterranean idea and pushes it towards something more contemporary, theatrical and deliberately visual. It makes Pyro an interesting addition to London's ever-changing restaurant scene, particularly for diners who enjoy Greek food but want something that feels a little removed from the predictable taverna format. The restaurant has a confident, modern personality, and there is a sense that the team wants you to experience Greek cooking through a more refined and imaginative lens rather than simply reproduce the classics.

Spanakopita pastel de nata

Pork souvlaki skewer

Silver Hill duck glazed with wild thyme honey, Gigantes beans hummus

The strongest dish of the meal for me was the duck, which was genuinely outstanding. This is where the open-fire philosophy feels completely justified. The cooking gives the meat depth and character, while the dish itself has enough balance and precision to avoid becoming only smoke or char. The honey and thyme element delivered a perfect harmony; this dish is easily Michelin level standard. On the other hand, the suckling pig sharing dish could be better. Some cuts of the pork were beautifully cooked, tender and full of flavour, while other parts were noticeably dry. With a dish that is supposed to be a centrepiece for the table, that inconsistency matters. Suckling pig should be one of those dishes where the quality of the meat and the cooking speak for themselves, and it cost £90.

Suckling pig 4 ways: shoulder, belly, leg and sausage

Greek coffee, chocolate & sesame

Jasmine tea cream

Overall, I think Pyro is a good and interesting restaurant for London, especially if you're looking for a modern interpretation of Greek food rather than a traditional Greek dining experience. Its greatest strength is that it has a clear point of view. The open-fire concept gives the restaurant an identity, and that identity extends from the kitchen into the design of the space and the way the food is presented.  Pyro feels like a restaurant worth returning, with enough character, creativity and ambition to stand out in London's crowded dining scene, but one that hasn't quite reached its full potential yet. I would happily return, particularly to explore more of the menu and see how consistently the kitchen can deliver its best work. There is clearly talent here, and the open-fire cooking gives Pyro a personality that many restaurants struggle to find. 

Food 3.5/5


What I paid: 
£60 per head

Average cost without drinks and services:
£75


 53b Southwark St, London SE1 1RU

https://pyrorestaurant.co.uk/