Tuesday, 17 December 2024

Row on 5

A Culinary Symphony by Jason Atherton


Caviar, cucumber and oyster


Located on Savile Row (hence the name Row on 5), Row on 5 is the latest fine dining jewel in the crown of acclaimed British chef Jason Atherton. Known for his mastery in blending sophisticated flavours with impeccable presentation, Atherton has once again raised the bar with a restaurant that epitomizes modern elegance and culinary artistry. He has done a lot of restructuring in his restaurant empire over the last 12 months, from shutting down his flagship Pollen Street Social and Social Eating House, to opening up 5 in the space of a few months, Row on 5 is his most ambitious and the most premium offering of the lots, with only a fixed tasting menu of 15 courses.

Hannah

 A Slice of Kyoto in Waterloo


Hassun


There have been many high-end Japanese openings recently, but Hannah Japanese Restaurant offers an exquisite Omakase dining experience, blending traditional Japanese Kaiseki with modern innovation. Situated at County Hall, its tranquil ambiance mirrors its culinary philosophy—celebrating seasonal ingredients and the artistry of food presentation. The menu in true Kaiseki form, comes in 11 courses, with a real focus on seafood, as well as dashi stock to create a one-of-a-kind fine dining experience.

Taku

Omakase sushi counter dining


Scallop and caviar


When it comes to dining experiences that combine elegance, tradition, and exquisite flavors, few culinary ventures do it better than sushi omakase, a traditional Japanese way of serving sushi, and that is what Taku is all about. This hidden gem is not just a dining spot; it’s an art gallery where the medium is the freshest seafood and the artist is the sushi chef. Stepping into Taku feels like entering a realm where time slows down, and every detail is tailored to perfection. The menu price can be off-putting, as dinner costs £300 with food alone (no choice chef menu), best come in for lunch instead as that's what I did. 

The Devonshire Soho

 Worth the hype?


Bone in ribeye


Nestled in the vibrant heart of Soho, The Devonshire offers a quintessential British pub experience with a light modern touch. It has become one of the most popular and hyped gastropubs in London since its launch in the winter of 2023. I visited in the early days and it didn't impress me with some rocky errors on overcooked meat. 1 year later, booking a table is almost mission impossible. Known for its inviting atmosphere and hearty food using top-class ingredients with an in-house butcher, this pub has earned a reputation as a go-to spot for casual dining. I returned twice in the winter of 2024 to see if much had changed.

Sunday, 1 December 2024

Ibai

The king of steak


King crab rice

Launched by the Txuleta specialist importer: Nemanja Borjanović, Ibai showcases the essence of Basque cuisine with a modern twist. Ibai is my London launch of the year so far and perhaps does the best steak in London. The team at Ibai brings traditional Basque grilling to life, presenting a menu that highlights simplicity, seasonality, and the robust flavours of Basque cuisine. The ambiance is warm and stylishly rustic, ideal for both intimate gatherings and business lunches. I have become a loyal fan since it launched in early summer 2024, the below captured my 6th and 7th visits.

Saturday, 30 November 2024

Goldies

 Golden goodie


BBQ corns

Located in the vibrant Kingly Court of Soho, Goldie offers a unique, wood-fired twist on dining that’s captivating London’s food enthusiasts. Known for its cozy, relaxed atmosphere and an emphasis on flame-grilled flavors, Goldie’s menu brings together fresh, seasonal ingredients with bold, rich tastes that elevate each dish. The open kitchen space allows diners to witness all the open fire actions, spreading an extremely inviting smoky aroma around the dining room. The menu is short, with around 20 dishes, mostly grilled or deep-fried.

Saturday, 23 November 2024

Wild Flowers

Impactful Mediterranean flavours


Cuttlefish & octopus fideua


Nestled within Newson's Yard, just off Pimlico Road, Wildflowers offers a contemporary Mediterranean dining experience in the heart of west London. Since its launch, the restaurant has been visited by many high-profile British chefs, given that it is run by Aaron Potter, the former head chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Elystan Street. It branded itself as a Mediterranean-lead restaurant with an international twist, and everything was cooked on charcoal, which sounded very interesting. 

Morchella

Innovative Mediterranean charm


Salt cod churros


London's food scene is ever-evolving, and it takes something truly special for a restaurant to stand out. Morchella, a relatively new gem in the city's bustling culinary landscape, has been quietly making waves with its innovative menu and warm atmosphere. Morchella offers a dining experience that's all about Mediterranean cuisine with a British touch, and highly seasonal. You would find Southern French, Spanish, Italian and Greek essences among the food offerings. The interesting thing about Morchella is it doesn't have a service charge as is factored into the price of the food.

The Cocochine

Bespoke tasting menu


Otoro, foie, caviar


This is my second visit to The Cocochine. Located in the heart of Mayfair, The Cocochine offers a sophisticated dining experience that effortlessly blends the vibrant flavors of Classic French food with the refined elegance of its Mayfair location. From the moment you step inside, the restaurant’s chic, modern, and club vibe décor greets you, setting the stage for a culinary delight. Chef  Larry Jayasekara champions the finest ingredients he can get hold of, from fatty tuna from Japan to top-of-the-range chicken from France. Given I have sampled a lot of dishes from its ALC format. I have requested the restaurant to come up with a bespoke tasting menu for my second visit.

Niju

 Katei Ryori Sundays


Sasahmi


Nestled in the heart of Mayfair, Niju brings an elegant blend of traditional Japanese cuisine and modern sophistication to London’s culinary scene. I visited in Autumn, and I was delighted with its food offering overall, especially in the seafood department. Since then, Niji has come up with a Sunday lunch menu aimed at sharing, pricing at £65 with a selection of cold dishes for starters, grilled meat for the main and a dessert. It is more or less the greatest hit of its regular ALC menu but at a much more reasonable price.

Nanyang Blossom

Blossoming into something special


White tuna and caviar


Nestled in the prestigious Knightsbridge district of London, Nanyang Blossom brings the vibrant culinary heritage of Southeast Asia to life. Chef-owner Darren Liew has a wealth of experience in high-end Asian cuisine in the UK, his approach is all about beautifully blending traditional Asian elements with a modern lens to provide something fresh, interesting yet comforting. What I enjoy about this place is that you can offer a budget, then Darren would come up with a bespoke menu to suit your taste, and that is what I opted for my 5th visit.

Sunday, 27 October 2024

Cornus

New yet familiar 

 

Seabass tartare, oyster cream, green apple and shiso


London is a city that never sleeps, and its food scene is no exception. The recent addition to its vibrant culinary map is Cornus. This contemporary European restaurant is already making waves, by the same group of people behind the much-loved French restaurant Medlar. Cornus’s menu is where the restaurant truly shines. It champions British ingredients while incorporating global influences. The dishes are familiar yet inventive, offering a fresh take on traditional British fare. The executive chef of Cornus is Gary Foulkes, who came from Michelin-starred Angler, and I am a massive fan of its seafood-focused menu.

The Ledbury

3 stars champion, at last!



Trout, raspberry, wasabi


The Ledbury, led by chef-owner Brett Graham, has established itself as a beacon of culinary excellence in London. The restaurant's philosophy is rooted in the use of the finest seasonal ingredients, with a focus on world-class yet relaxing service. Every dish is a testament to the creativity and precision that landed The Ledbury a third-Michelin-star in 2024 and became the No. 1 in 'UK's 50 Best Restaurants' from the trade media Restaurant magazine. I am a super fan and have been a regular, but the recent 24th visit is the first time since it became a 3-star venue.

Ikoyi

Impactful exotic flavours


mackerel, caviar and beetroot


Even since it first opened in 2017, Ikoyi has become a highly regarded fine dining restaurant with its unusual approach, blending African flavours along with an Asian touch with modern European techniques. It relocated from St James to the Strand in 2022 to a much bigger space with well spread out tables, and became a tasting menu only restaurant and soon it landed itself a second Michelin star. I never got the chance to experience what the buzz is all about so it is about time for me to set things right and give it a go.

Saturday, 26 October 2024

Ibai

 Basque grill don


Grilled red prawns


London is always flooded with new restaurants opening, but sadly many have been poor and only a handful have impressed me over the last few years. The Basque-themed grill house Ibai is one of those. Open in the early summer of 2024, it has quickly become my opening of the year with its top-notch food offering. The menu is focused on simplicity and seasonal ingredients, a hallmark of Basque cuisine. Ibai prides itself on sourcing fresh, high-quality produce, much of which is imported from Spain to ensure authenticity. The result? A menu that offers bold, rich flavors with each dish showcasing the elegance of understated cooking. The below covered my 4th and 5th visits.

Donostia

The magic of Basque cuisine in London 


Iberico croquettes and crab pintxos


In the bustling neighborhood of Marylebone, a quiet gem awaits food lovers seeking a taste of northern Spain. Donostia, named after the Basque city of San Sebastián, is a sleek yet intimate restaurant that brings the flavors of Spain’s Basque Country right to the heart of London. Basque cuisine is renowned for its simplicity, yet it manages to be hearty and flavorful. The team at Donostia ensures that every dish retains the essence of Basque cuisine, with a local adaptation to make it more welcoming for the British palate.

Kima

 Fin to gill


Raw seabass in lemon and olive oil


Kima is a one-of-a-kind seafood restaurant that does something outside the box. It transports diners from the bustling city to the serene shores of the Mediterranean, where the fresh sea breeze mingles with the scent of fresh seafood. This elegant Greek seafood restaurant offers a contemporary dining experience, blending traditional flavours with modern culinary artistry. It has a fresh daily catch counter load with top quality fish, you would find wild seabass, and seabream as well as more rare fishes such as grouper and madai, and Kima has a unique way of serving fish.

Quality Chop House

Great British Meat Temple


Sunday lunch feast

Quality Chop House is an iconic restaurant that effortlessly blends history with modern culinary innovation. I always head back once in a while as at the heart of the Quality Chop House experience is its dedication to top-notch, fine-quality ingredients. The menu regularly features cuts from lesser-known parts of the animal, championing nose-to-tail dining, such as fish head and chicken liver. The restaurant prides itself on showcasing the finest British meats with simple old-school preparation techniques, with cast iron pans, a load of butter, and an open fire.

Hakkasan Hanway Place

Classic revisit


Peking duck

Tucked away on Hanway Place, Hakkasan might seem unassuming from the outside, but once you step inside, it reveals an ultra-modern and sleek atmosphere. The dark, moody lighting, beautifully carved wooden screens, and a mix of luxurious furnishings create an intimate setting. The menu is a carefully curated selection of modern Cantonese dishes that honor tradition while introducing innovative twists. I have been to Hakkasan a few times in the past and I found their strength is their signature dishes that bas been on the menu since they opened more than 20 years ago.

Saturday, 5 October 2024

Niju

Japanese reboot 

Half Cobb Farm chicken ‘katsu’, shredded cabbage, tonkatsu

Nestled in the heart of Mayfair where the short-lived 20 Barkery used to be, Niji is a sophisticated Japanese restaurant that effortlessly blends tradition with modernity. Oversee my master sushi chef Endo San, the menu at Niji is a testament to the art of Japanese cuisine, featuring a range of traditional dishes with a contemporary European twist. While its press release mentions it has a focus on Japanese home cooking, I doubt an average Japanese household would cook lobster, wagyu, and turbot regularly. Over my 2 visits within the space of a week, I managed to try out a large selection of its menu.

Friday, 20 September 2024

Oma

A not-so-Greek Greek restaurant 


Txuleta sirloin, chimichurri and tomato salad


Nestled in the vibrant heart of London Bridge, Oma offers an inviting escape into the warm embrace of Greek cuisine with a creative take from chef-owner David Carter, who is also the mastermind behind the much-loved Smokstak and Manteca. While it markets itself as a Greek restaurant, you will find many not-so-Greek items on the menu. From Spanish steak to red prawns. The open kitchen of Oma adds a dynamic element, allowing diners to witness the culinary magic unfold. For my second visit, I opted for some new dishes that just launched for Autumn.

Wednesday, 18 September 2024

Lita Marylebone

High end stylish Mediterranean grill 


Baked lobster and cuttlefish rice


This is my second visit to Lita, the Mediterranean-themed grill house in Marylebone, which really impressed me with its appealing menu with a focus on Spanish and Italian cuisine. I am a fan of this stylish eatery which offers a refreshing escape from the city’s fast pace. The space feels intimate but not cramped, making it perfect for both casual get-togethers and special occasions.  While the price tag is fine dining level and just as expensive as many 1 Michelin-starred outlets in London, the cooking is high class and uses a lot of top-level ingredients, such as Galician rib steak and Cantabrian anchovies.

Lurra

 Basque cuisine in London


Galician octopus


Basque cuisine is perhaps the best European cuisine for me, but it is rare to find a good place in London that can do well. Despite Lurra being launched more than 9 years ago, I have yet to visit despite the appealing menu. Lurra's menu is a celebration of Basque cuisine, with a focus on grilled meats. The highlight of the meal is undoubtedly the Spanish rib steaks, a succulent Galician steak from old aged cows that are cooked over a wood-fired grill. For my visit with a large group, I was able to order most items on the menu.

Tuesday, 17 September 2024

Ibai

 Surf and turf king


1kg bone-in British wagyu ribeye

Ibai in St Paul is my no 1 London restaurant opening of the year so far. It offers a slice of the Basque Country with a contemporary twist. This elegant, dark warehouse vibe restaurant has quickly gained a reputation for its innovative approach to Basque cuisine. The open kitchen adds a lively touch, allowing diners to catch glimpses of the culinary artistry in action. Given that most of the dishes come out of its open-fire grill and that Ibai has an in-house steak aging room, the aroma of the space is just so inviting.

Nanyang Blossom

Malaysian themed feast

John Dorey with aged tomato chilli


Nanyang Blossom is a brand-new Malaysian-themed restaurant located in Knightsbridge. What sets this venue apart from the other Malaysian restaurants in London is that it has a much more upmarket approach, is far more creative, and does not shy away from using premium ingredients. Co-owner chef Daren Liew created a range of signature dishes you would not find elsewhere, with an innovative approach and Western influences. For my second visit, I opted for a chef-special bespoke menu, with most dishes coming from its alc menu, as well as Daren's signature offerings.

Whytes

Basque twist but is it better than OG?


Baked red prawn tomato rice


Located in London Field, Whytes is a modern creative restaurant that is unlike any other, the chef-owner Mr Whytes rotates its menu once a month and changes it completely, from French to British and fusion theme etc. He enjoys taking a cuisine and adding his modern creative touch to give it a fresh feel. For August, Whytes is doing a Basque-inspired menu and that is music to my ear as it is my no1 European cuisine. The menu contains some small plates, followed by 3 large sharing dishes in ALC format. 

Tuesday, 6 August 2024

Story

 Story chapter 2


English Pea Custard, N25 Caviar


I recall when Story first opened back in 2013, it was the talk of the town and the hottest opening in London. The creativity and surprise element was so new and cutting edge for Londoners, I remember the wow factor from the beef dipping candle, which I had no idea was butter till the bread was served to me. Fast forward more than 10 years later, it got itself not 1, but 2 Michelin stars and Story has closed for almost a year as it went into a major revamp in 2023, before it reopened again in early 2024 with a brand new decor and menu. I was interested to see the progress and changes.

The Ninth

Mediterranean-themed offering


Spaghetti, Australian Winter Truffle & Aged Parmesan

The Ninth by Chef Jun Tanaka is a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant that offers Southern French cuisine with a strong Mediterranean influence. Spreading across 3 floors with a short selection of starters, pasta and main dishes to pick from. This is my second time at The Ninth, with the last visit dated back all the way to when it was opened, back in 2016. Given it has been 8 years since, I am sure a lot has changed so I went with open eyes. To best experience what The Ninth is all about, I opted for the Chef's choice menu.

Sunday, 4 August 2024

Ibai

The new king of Basque cuisine


Galician rib


Spanish Basque is my no1 Western cuisine easily, but finding decent Spanish restaurants in the UK is challenging, and even harder when it comes to Basque cuisine. When I noticed Ibai, a new Basque grill house just opened in St Paul, I was excited about it. From reading the menu, it just has so many things that I would love to eat, from whole Galician beef ribs to red prawn tartare, it seems like Ibai does not shy away from using some really top-class ingredients and if cooked right, it would guarantee some top-notch dishes. I ordered most things on the menu and was looking forward to a long Basque feast.

Lita Marylebone

Top-notch classy grill house


Grilled 1.6kg Cornish turbot


Lita is a new grill restaurant that prides itself on turning out Mediterranean-style cuisine, with plenty of fire action using top ingredients sources from around Europe. What really caught my attention was its menu, as most of the dishes sounded so inviting, with plenty of Spanish/Italian elements (my fav European cuisine) and combined with some really top ingredients. When a restaurant decides to use Limousin sweetbread and Galician beef, you know it is a serious restaurant that wants to provide top-level dishes.

Kima

The finest Greek seafood in London?


2.4kg grilled wild Cornish turbot with Greek extra virgin olive oil


I have been on a mission lately to locate restaurants that serve a whole large fish in London, that is not an easy task as many places would only offer fish fillets as seeing a fish head on a dining table can still be offputting for some. After some online research, I came across a Greek restaurant called Kima that is all about seafood, and it has its own fish counter of daily fresh catch which the chef is able to serve in many ways, from raw, fish stew, grilled to steamed etc, this sounds just perfect for me, as cooking a whole fresh fish is no easy task so I was glad to find a place that has such a strong focus in fish cookery. The menu also contains plenty of other seafood items besides whole fish, all cooked in a Greek cuisine manner.

Nanyang Blossom

Impactful flavours from the Nanyang Ocean 


Grilled abalone salad with caviar and pumpkin


For some reason, London has yet to have an upmarket Malaysian restaurant in London, despite there are so many trending Malaysian restaurants, like Laksamania and Sambal Shiok. Nanyang Bloosom appears to attempt to change that. Located in Knightsbridge with Harrods just around the corner, Nanyang Blossom is a brand new restaurant by chef patron Daren Liew who was the head chef at the short-lived Duddells London and Blue Jasmine in Southhampton. Nanyang Blossom focuses on the rich flavours from the South China Sea, using plenty of spices and herbs to create an aromatic yet contemporary taste, and the menu itself contains plenty of upmarket ingredients, from crab, and lobster to Chilian seabass and Japanese wagyu.

Saturday, 3 August 2024

Donia

Fusion Filipino style


Pumpkin and squash lobster


Fusion is a dirty word in the chef world and is something not easy to pull off, so I usually try to avoid any restaurant trying to do fusion. When I first heard about Donia, a pretty new restaurant in Soho that does Filipino cuisine with a Western touch, it sounded like a minefield. However, there are hardly any Filipino restaurants in London and it is a cuisine that I would like to explore more, and after some very positive reviews from the press, plus the menu from its website looked appealing, I decided to give it a go. The menu is spread between snacks, starters, mains and desserts, a very Western-style approach.

Imperial Treasure Fine Chinese Cuisine London

Traditional Cantonese feast


Roasted Chilian seabass in honey


When you look at the dishes from Imperial Treasure, you might find them not far apart from dishes you would encounter in Chinatown yet the price is far higher. Yet somehow it has gained a loyal following, especially in the Chinese community. The main reason would be that it uses far superior ingredients, they would use a whole prawn in a har gow instead of chopped-up prawn paste, and they would use Iberico pork for char siu instead of some random frozen low-price pork as an example. Everything all cooked in a very traditional Cantonese manner. 

Duck and Rice

 Beer and Chinese cuisine combo


Stir fry lobster in ginger and spring onions


Duck and Rice in Soho is a unique beast, you wouldn't usually associate pub food with Chinese food but this is what Duck and Rice is all about. The upmarket pub/restaurant offers plenty of premium beer, with a range of Chinese dishes that would work well with beer, such as Cantonese roasted duck and salt and pepper squid. I have visited once a while since 2016, and the below covers my recent 9th visit. It seems not a great deal has changed, with the menu more or less staying the same, with some dim sum and small plates which would work as starters, followed by larger dishes under the label 'chop suey'

Mei Ume

Premium Asian offering in East London


Grilled yellowtail collar


Located within the 5 stars Four Season Hotel, Mei Ume is somewhat of an unusual Asian restaurant, as it offers Chinese and Japanese cuisine under one space. As it is such a different cuisine between the two, it has two kitchen spaces to cater to each cuisine. I would say it is a Chinese restaurant at heart since it is led by a Malaysian Chinese chef Peter Ho, whose work experience came from the likes of Hakkasan and Mei Mei, all are Chinese restaurants. For my 7th visit, I revisited some signature dishes of the house as well as trying some new items.

Thursday, 25 July 2024

The Midland Grand Dining Room Restaurant

Goodbye Mr Powell


Roasted chicken, wild mushrooms and riesling sauce


Since Midland launched in the early summer of 2023, it has become one of my go-to places for top-quality French cuisine. I have been there 4 times in total and not long after I have been for my 4th time, I discovered that Patrick Powell, the chef behind all the wonderful creations is leaving. This is a shame for me as Midland is one of my top French restaurants in London. Below is my experience from my 4th visit just before he left, I went for 2 courses only, mains and desserts:

Monday, 22 July 2024

Park Chinois

 Dim sum champion, so long


Pumpkin dumplings, scallop dumplings and xiao long bao

Without a doubt, Park Chinois is my No. 1 choice for Chinese cuisine in London, it has a really strong dim sum offering, as well as some high-class stir fry and seafood items, it is the whole package as far as food-wise. When the news broke out that the dim sum head chef Ming was leaving the business, it was sad news for me as I enjoyed so many of his creations over the years. For my 28th visit, I went pretty much full-on dim sum mode and ordered almost the entire dim sum menu, which in a way was a good tribute to enjoy Chef Ming's creation one last time.

Sunday, 14 July 2024

Brooklands by Claude Bosi

 Class act within the poshest hotel in London


Canapes


Brooklands, located within the super luxury 5-star Peninsula hotel has been on my to-visit list for a whole. I enjoyed Chef Claude Bosi's cooking in the early days when he was still running Hibiscus in Mayfair. He has since opened Bibendum in South Kensington which I followed, and in late 2023, Brooklands launched and it landed itself 2 Michelin stars within 6 months, an amazing achievement but not one I was surprised given Claude is such a talented French chef. His Brooklands offering has a mixture of French and British flair, and I was interested to see what is it like vs his flagship Bibendum.

Morchella

Innovative flavours of the Mediterranean region


Salt cod churros


It is hard to look beyond Mediterranean cuisine for a summer feast with fresh flavors. Flavours from Italy and Greece etc provide some of the most attractive and colourful tastes. However, many restaurants that offer Mediterranean cuisine can fall into the trap of doing traditional things, but nowhere as good as the real deal due to not being able to source local ingredients at their peak form. Therefore, some innovative twists to take advantage of the best British ingredients is a welcoming change and in Morchella, a brand new opening has a short but interesting menu that I was more than happy to explore.

Mountain Beak Street

Upmarket BBQ but why the hype?


Lobster caldereta


2024 has been a great year for Mountain, a grill restaurant by chef Tom Perry who found success in Kitty Fisher, before launching his own restaurant Brat. Mountain has gained a Michelin star in the 2024 guide, as well as coming into no2 in the UK's best restaurant list from the much-respected trade press Restaurant Magazine. I have been to Mountain once when it was opened back in the summer of 2023, while the food was solid, I never really understood why it is packed with so much hype. However, there is one dish I enjoyed which is a lobster stew and that is the reason I went back.

Thursday, 27 June 2024

Kitty Fishers

 Cozy yet classy British cuisine 


Whipped Cod’s Roe On Toast


When Kitty Fishers opened back in 2014, it was perhaps the most trending restaurant opening of the year. Back then it was headed up by chef wizard Tom Parry who has gone on to become a very successful restaurant operator with Brats and Mountain which both have a Michelin star. While Tom was in charge, Booking a table was mission impossible as his approach to modern British cuisine with a nod to traditional techniques was something pretty new and exciting back then. 10 years later, the menu hasn't changed much with British cuisine still at its core, using a range of fine local ingredients.

Galvin Bistrot

Classic for a reason


Chorizo croquettes 


I have been to the Michelin-starred Galvin la Chapelle a few times over the last few years, and somehow kept missing its sister joint Galvin Bistrot which is just next door to it. Unlike La Chapelle, Galvin Bistrot is a relaxing, casual French restaurant in the Bistro mood. What you see is what you get, no creativity or edgy concept, it just turns out classic French dishes in a refined manner, in a short alc menu format. Which sometimes is just what I appreciate, as when you dine with friends who are not overly keen on long hours tasting menu format and on a budget, French Bistro is always a great solution.

Sagardi

Tuleton steak in the UK


Cod fish omlette


When you think of top-grade steak, it is normal for most to think of Japanese wagyu to be the king of steak. However, I found while the texture of wagyu steak is excellent with a melting texture, I much prefer something more bold and savory in taste, which wagyu steak lacks. Therefore, the Spanish old cow 'Tuleton' steak is what I prefer. The cow aged up to 15+ years old before being slaughtered and offers a powerful creamy and beefy taste that no steak can match. The Rubia Gallega breed from the North Western of Spain is especially considered the finest. Not many London restaurants offer such a fine cut but Sagardi is one of them.

Saturday, 15 June 2024

Roe

London opening of the year?


Cuttlefish fried toast, pork skin, sesame


The team behind Fallow has launched a brand new restaurant called Roe. Located in Canary Wharf and able to 500 covers thanks to its extremely large space, taking over the whole ground floor of an entire flat just off the Canary Wharf tube station. Given the location is not known as a dining hot spot. I found Roe is such a high-risk project, especially these days when more people work from home and some businesses decided to leave the area. Judging from the menu, the food has some Fallow elements but with the addition of flatbread and a few sharing dishes.

64 Goodge Street

 French cuisine, British style


Soupe au cresson & truffled Comté brioche


This is my second visit to 64 Goodge Street, a French restaurant by the same team behind the wonderful Quality Chop House. From my first visit back in 2023, I was really impressed with the quality of its take on French cuisine with a modern British essence, leveraging the best of British ingredients. Therefore, it was always worth a revisit. This time, I enjoyed lunch in its private dining room, which serves an ALC menu just like the main dining room. You are offered a number of choices from starters, mains and desserts, and you can add in snacks and sides should you wish.

The Cocochine

 Club vibe fine dining


Tanera Island Barbecued Native Lobster, Crème Fraîche, Wild Cardamon, Red Wine Jus


The Cocochine is a very interesting restaurant that just opened in Mayfair. Unlike many new fine dining restaurants that only offer a tasting menu, The Cocohine is going the opposite and offers only a 3 courses ALC menu. Spread across 3 floors, the ground floor is the main dining room space while the second floor is a chef counter setting with the same menu. It also has a private dining room on the top floor that has a member club vibe. I suspect it is still fairly unknown to most, as it shows when I visited. Including my table, there were only 5 tables with diners on the night.

Agora

Greek-inspired street food joint


wildfarmed flatbread and chard borani


Agora's sister Greek restaurant Oma launched with a bang, it gathered some very warming, over the top positive reviews from the media. I personally enjoyed my Oma occasion, too, but when I visited Oma by having to walk past the busy and lively Agora on the ground floor, I was interested in giving it a go, thanks to its fire cooking and focus on meat. The only thing that put me off is a no-booking restaurant so I had to plan to arrive before 6pm to avoid the after-work crowds. At Agora, it is all about the fast pace and keeping things super casual, with a short menu of dips salad, flatbread, skewers and roasted meat.

Nest

 Pork season tasting menu


 Charcuterie and pork terrine

Nest is a one-of-a-kind restaurant, it is sister to the 1 Michelin-starred St Barts, and just like St Barts, it offers a tasting menu only but Nest does it to the next level. Every month, it offers a seasonal menu that would be completely changed vs the last one, and it focuses on one single ingredient so you would be getting multi-courses of dishes that use either the same animal or seafood. I had an excellent lamb-tasting menu back in April so it was good enough for me to return to sample its pork menu.

Sunday, 19 May 2024

Oma

 Innovative Greek concept


salt cod xo, labneh


Since Chef David Carter opened Smokstak in Shoreditch back in 2016, I could tell he really understood the magic of fire cooking, his American-style BBQ meat was simple yet excellent. Since then, he went on to open the Italian concept Manteca in 2021; the meat dishes were again the star. Fast forward to 2024, he opened the Greek concept Oma, located inside Borough Market. What I learned from Manteca is that what he is good at is taking a cuisine's essence to enhance the flavours of his inauthentic take on the cuisine, and leverage top class ingredients and fire cooking. So I had high expectations of Oma.