A Culinary Symphony by Jason Atherton
Caviar, cucumber and oyster |
Restaurants, bars, products, events.... Food and drinks reviews, topics and everything in between.
Caviar, cucumber and oyster |
Hassun |
Scallop and caviar |
Bone in ribeye |
King crab rice |
Launched by the Txuleta specialist importer: Nemanja Borjanović, Ibai showcases the essence of Basque cuisine with a modern twist. Ibai is my London launch of the year so far and perhaps does the best steak in London. The team at Ibai brings traditional Basque grilling to life, presenting a menu that highlights simplicity, seasonality, and the robust flavours of Basque cuisine. The ambiance is warm and stylishly rustic, ideal for both intimate gatherings and business lunches. I have become a loyal fan since it launched in early summer 2024, the below captured my 6th and 7th visits.
BBQ corns |
Cuttlefish & octopus fideua |
Salt cod churros |
Otoro, foie, caviar |
Sasahmi |
White tuna and caviar |
Seabass tartare, oyster cream, green apple and shiso |
Trout, raspberry, wasabi |
mackerel, caviar and beetroot |
Grilled red prawns |
Iberico croquettes and crab pintxos |
Raw seabass in lemon and olive oil |
Sunday lunch feast |
Quality Chop House is an iconic restaurant that effortlessly blends history with modern culinary innovation. I always head back once in a while as at the heart of the Quality Chop House experience is its dedication to top-notch, fine-quality ingredients. The menu regularly features cuts from lesser-known parts of the animal, championing nose-to-tail dining, such as fish head and chicken liver. The restaurant prides itself on showcasing the finest British meats with simple old-school preparation techniques, with cast iron pans, a load of butter, and an open fire.
Peking duck |
Tucked away on Hanway Place, Hakkasan might seem unassuming from the outside, but once you step inside, it reveals an ultra-modern and sleek atmosphere. The dark, moody lighting, beautifully carved wooden screens, and a mix of luxurious furnishings create an intimate setting. The menu is a carefully curated selection of modern Cantonese dishes that honor tradition while introducing innovative twists. I have been to Hakkasan a few times in the past and I found their strength is their signature dishes that bas been on the menu since they opened more than 20 years ago.
Half Cobb Farm chicken ‘katsu’, shredded cabbage, tonkatsu |
Nestled in the heart of Mayfair where the short-lived 20 Barkery used to be, Niji is a sophisticated Japanese restaurant that effortlessly blends tradition with modernity. Oversee my master sushi chef Endo San, the menu at Niji is a testament to the art of Japanese cuisine, featuring a range of traditional dishes with a contemporary European twist. While its press release mentions it has a focus on Japanese home cooking, I doubt an average Japanese household would cook lobster, wagyu, and turbot regularly. Over my 2 visits within the space of a week, I managed to try out a large selection of its menu.
Txuleta sirloin, chimichurri and tomato salad |
Nestled in the vibrant heart of London Bridge, Oma offers an inviting escape into the warm embrace of Greek cuisine with a creative take from chef-owner David Carter, who is also the mastermind behind the much-loved Smokstak and Manteca. While it markets itself as a Greek restaurant, you will find many not-so-Greek items on the menu. From Spanish steak to red prawns. The open kitchen of Oma adds a dynamic element, allowing diners to witness the culinary magic unfold. For my second visit, I opted for some new dishes that just launched for Autumn.
Baked lobster and cuttlefish rice |
This is my second visit to Lita, the Mediterranean-themed grill house in Marylebone, which really impressed me with its appealing menu with a focus on Spanish and Italian cuisine. I am a fan of this stylish eatery which offers a refreshing escape from the city’s fast pace. The space feels intimate but not cramped, making it perfect for both casual get-togethers and special occasions. While the price tag is fine dining level and just as expensive as many 1 Michelin-starred outlets in London, the cooking is high class and uses a lot of top-level ingredients, such as Galician rib steak and Cantabrian anchovies.
Galician octopus |
Basque cuisine is perhaps the best European cuisine for me, but it is rare to find a good place in London that can do well. Despite Lurra being launched more than 9 years ago, I have yet to visit despite the appealing menu. Lurra's menu is a celebration of Basque cuisine, with a focus on grilled meats. The highlight of the meal is undoubtedly the Spanish rib steaks, a succulent Galician steak from old aged cows that are cooked over a wood-fired grill. For my visit with a large group, I was able to order most items on the menu.
1kg bone-in British wagyu ribeye |
Ibai in St Paul is my no 1 London restaurant opening of the year so far. It offers a slice of the Basque Country with a contemporary twist. This elegant, dark warehouse vibe restaurant has quickly gained a reputation for its innovative approach to Basque cuisine. The open kitchen adds a lively touch, allowing diners to catch glimpses of the culinary artistry in action. Given that most of the dishes come out of its open-fire grill and that Ibai has an in-house steak aging room, the aroma of the space is just so inviting.
John Dorey with aged tomato chilli |
Nanyang Blossom is a brand-new Malaysian-themed restaurant located in Knightsbridge. What sets this venue apart from the other Malaysian restaurants in London is that it has a much more upmarket approach, is far more creative, and does not shy away from using premium ingredients. Co-owner chef Daren Liew created a range of signature dishes you would not find elsewhere, with an innovative approach and Western influences. For my second visit, I opted for a chef-special bespoke menu, with most dishes coming from its alc menu, as well as Daren's signature offerings.
Baked red prawn tomato rice |
Located in London Field, Whytes is a modern creative restaurant that is unlike any other, the chef-owner Mr Whytes rotates its menu once a month and changes it completely, from French to British and fusion theme etc. He enjoys taking a cuisine and adding his modern creative touch to give it a fresh feel. For August, Whytes is doing a Basque-inspired menu and that is music to my ear as it is my no1 European cuisine. The menu contains some small plates, followed by 3 large sharing dishes in ALC format.
English Pea Custard, N25 Caviar |
Spaghetti, Australian Winter Truffle & Aged Parmesan |
The Ninth by Chef Jun Tanaka is a 1 Michelin-starred restaurant that offers Southern French cuisine with a strong Mediterranean influence. Spreading across 3 floors with a short selection of starters, pasta and main dishes to pick from. This is my second time at The Ninth, with the last visit dated back all the way to when it was opened, back in 2016. Given it has been 8 years since, I am sure a lot has changed so I went with open eyes. To best experience what The Ninth is all about, I opted for the Chef's choice menu.
Galician rib |
Spanish Basque is my no1 Western cuisine easily, but finding decent Spanish restaurants in the UK is challenging, and even harder when it comes to Basque cuisine. When I noticed Ibai, a new Basque grill house just opened in St Paul, I was excited about it. From reading the menu, it just has so many things that I would love to eat, from whole Galician beef ribs to red prawn tartare, it seems like Ibai does not shy away from using some really top-class ingredients and if cooked right, it would guarantee some top-notch dishes. I ordered most things on the menu and was looking forward to a long Basque feast.
Grilled 1.6kg Cornish turbot |
Lita is a new grill restaurant that prides itself on turning out Mediterranean-style cuisine, with plenty of fire action using top ingredients sources from around Europe. What really caught my attention was its menu, as most of the dishes sounded so inviting, with plenty of Spanish/Italian elements (my fav European cuisine) and combined with some really top ingredients. When a restaurant decides to use Limousin sweetbread and Galician beef, you know it is a serious restaurant that wants to provide top-level dishes.
2.4kg grilled wild Cornish turbot with Greek extra virgin olive oil |
I have been on a mission lately to locate restaurants that serve a whole large fish in London, that is not an easy task as many places would only offer fish fillets as seeing a fish head on a dining table can still be offputting for some. After some online research, I came across a Greek restaurant called Kima that is all about seafood, and it has its own fish counter of daily fresh catch which the chef is able to serve in many ways, from raw, fish stew, grilled to steamed etc, this sounds just perfect for me, as cooking a whole fresh fish is no easy task so I was glad to find a place that has such a strong focus in fish cookery. The menu also contains plenty of other seafood items besides whole fish, all cooked in a Greek cuisine manner.
Grilled abalone salad with caviar and pumpkin |
Pumpkin and squash lobster |
Fusion is a dirty word in the chef world and is something not easy to pull off, so I usually try to avoid any restaurant trying to do fusion. When I first heard about Donia, a pretty new restaurant in Soho that does Filipino cuisine with a Western touch, it sounded like a minefield. However, there are hardly any Filipino restaurants in London and it is a cuisine that I would like to explore more, and after some very positive reviews from the press, plus the menu from its website looked appealing, I decided to give it a go. The menu is spread between snacks, starters, mains and desserts, a very Western-style approach.
Roasted Chilian seabass in honey |
Stir fry lobster in ginger and spring onions |
Duck and Rice in Soho is a unique beast, you wouldn't usually associate pub food with Chinese food but this is what Duck and Rice is all about. The upmarket pub/restaurant offers plenty of premium beer, with a range of Chinese dishes that would work well with beer, such as Cantonese roasted duck and salt and pepper squid. I have visited once a while since 2016, and the below covers my recent 9th visit. It seems not a great deal has changed, with the menu more or less staying the same, with some dim sum and small plates which would work as starters, followed by larger dishes under the label 'chop suey'
Grilled yellowtail collar |
Located within the 5 stars Four Season Hotel, Mei Ume is somewhat of an unusual Asian restaurant, as it offers Chinese and Japanese cuisine under one space. As it is such a different cuisine between the two, it has two kitchen spaces to cater to each cuisine. I would say it is a Chinese restaurant at heart since it is led by a Malaysian Chinese chef Peter Ho, whose work experience came from the likes of Hakkasan and Mei Mei, all are Chinese restaurants. For my 7th visit, I revisited some signature dishes of the house as well as trying some new items.
Roasted chicken, wild mushrooms and riesling sauce |
Since Midland launched in the early summer of 2023, it has become one of my go-to places for top-quality French cuisine. I have been there 4 times in total and not long after I have been for my 4th time, I discovered that Patrick Powell, the chef behind all the wonderful creations is leaving. This is a shame for me as Midland is one of my top French restaurants in London. Below is my experience from my 4th visit just before he left, I went for 2 courses only, mains and desserts:
Pumpkin dumplings, scallop dumplings and xiao long bao |
Without a doubt, Park Chinois is my No. 1 choice for Chinese cuisine in London, it has a really strong dim sum offering, as well as some high-class stir fry and seafood items, it is the whole package as far as food-wise. When the news broke out that the dim sum head chef Ming was leaving the business, it was sad news for me as I enjoyed so many of his creations over the years. For my 28th visit, I went pretty much full-on dim sum mode and ordered almost the entire dim sum menu, which in a way was a good tribute to enjoy Chef Ming's creation one last time.
Canapes |
Brooklands, located within the super luxury 5-star Peninsula hotel has been on my to-visit list for a whole. I enjoyed Chef Claude Bosi's cooking in the early days when he was still running Hibiscus in Mayfair. He has since opened Bibendum in South Kensington which I followed, and in late 2023, Brooklands launched and it landed itself 2 Michelin stars within 6 months, an amazing achievement but not one I was surprised given Claude is such a talented French chef. His Brooklands offering has a mixture of French and British flair, and I was interested to see what is it like vs his flagship Bibendum.
Salt cod churros |
Lobster caldereta |
2024 has been a great year for Mountain, a grill restaurant by chef Tom Perry who found success in Kitty Fisher, before launching his own restaurant Brat. Mountain has gained a Michelin star in the 2024 guide, as well as coming into no2 in the UK's best restaurant list from the much-respected trade press Restaurant Magazine. I have been to Mountain once when it was opened back in the summer of 2023, while the food was solid, I never really understood why it is packed with so much hype. However, there is one dish I enjoyed which is a lobster stew and that is the reason I went back.
Whipped Cod’s Roe On Toast |
Chorizo croquettes |
I have been to the Michelin-starred Galvin la Chapelle a few times over the last few years, and somehow kept missing its sister joint Galvin Bistrot which is just next door to it. Unlike La Chapelle, Galvin Bistrot is a relaxing, casual French restaurant in the Bistro mood. What you see is what you get, no creativity or edgy concept, it just turns out classic French dishes in a refined manner, in a short alc menu format. Which sometimes is just what I appreciate, as when you dine with friends who are not overly keen on long hours tasting menu format and on a budget, French Bistro is always a great solution.
Cod fish omlette |
Cuttlefish fried toast, pork skin, sesame |
Soupe au cresson & truffled Comté brioche |
Tanera Island Barbecued Native Lobster, Crème Fraîche, Wild Cardamon, Red Wine Jus |
wildfarmed flatbread and chard borani |
Charcuterie and pork terrine |
Nest is a one-of-a-kind restaurant, it is sister to the 1 Michelin-starred St Barts, and just like St Barts, it offers a tasting menu only but Nest does it to the next level. Every month, it offers a seasonal menu that would be completely changed vs the last one, and it focuses on one single ingredient so you would be getting multi-courses of dishes that use either the same animal or seafood. I had an excellent lamb-tasting menu back in April so it was good enough for me to return to sample its pork menu.
salt cod xo, labneh |