Friday, 5 December 2025

Luso

The new but not so new Portuguese in town


Clams, garlic, coriander


Luso is a brand new Portuguese restaurant that used to be the hit joint Lisboeta. After a total rebranding by the same people behind it, it has become more casual and simple. The décor carries forward much of the character from its predecessor: wood tones, soft lighting, prints of sea life, the sort of furnishings that feel refined without being overbearing. Under the new consultant executive chef, Leandro Carreira, the kitchen draws heavily on the Iberian Atlantic coastline, nodding to Portuguese coastal flavours.

Brutto

 High energy vibe, less on the food


Vitello tonnato


Walking into Brutto, nestled at 35-37 Greenhill Rents in Clerkenwell, London, you are greeted by the kind of energy that suggests a trattoria in full swing rather than a formal white tablecloth venue. The red-and-white gingham tablecloths, the vintage wall art, the faint hum of conversation, and the clinking of cutlery all combine to create a warm but lively environment. The restaurant is a rustic homage to Florence via London, with a meat-forward (no fish!), Tuscan-inspired menu and a friendly, casual approach.

Town

Not the Town I was hoping for


Cornish crab, tomato and trout roe salad


Covent Garden has never been short on showmanship, and Town, Stevie Parle’s newest creation on Drury Lane, leans heavily into theatre. The design alone is a performance: chrome curves, burgundy walls, lime-lit open kitchen, and a retro-futuristic dining room that feels like a 1970s nightclub. The menu is dotted with names familiar to London’s food-savvy crowd: Wildfarmed bread, Goods Shed vegetables, Irish cheeses and lobster from the Welsh waters, all carrying a sense of story and provenance. On paper it’s an irresistible mix: beautiful setting, traceable ingredients, a chef with pedigree, and the promise of something memorable.

Wild Flowers

The kind of Mediterranean restaurant that London just needs 


Cuttlefish ‘Arroz al Horno’, crisp pork jowl


Located in Newson’s Yard, Belgravia. From the moment you set foot into Wildflowers, you sense that this is no ordinary Mediterranean restaurant. I am a fan and this is my 3rd visit, so why am I returning? Well, it is a thoroughly accomplished restaurant: it combines striking design, skilled and daring cooking, and the kind of ambience that works whether you’re there for a casual dinner with friends or a special evening. Wildflowers delivers a menu anchored in Mediterranean traditions but adapted and refined with local, seasonal produce and live-fire or charcoal inspiration, and it is what makes this place special for me.

Brat

OG fire temple of London 


Grilled Bread with Anchovy


Located in Shoreditch, Brat is a Basque-inspired grillhouse reimagined in East London, anchored around the fire that sits at its heart. That fire, visible and omnipresent, sets the tone for the entire experience—it is Brat’s identity, its cooking philosophy, and its main act rolled into one. It transforms the space into something elemental, a reminder that good food is not just about ingredients but about what happens when you apply heat, time, and skill in the most exacting way. This is my 4th visit, and I found the food enjoyable yet a touch too expensive, especially since the decor is so casual with tables crammed so close together.

La Palombe

 Underrated West London gem


Chargrilled octopus, smoked beetroot purée, pickled carrots & capers


West London is no stranger to excellent dining, but every so often, a place comes along that quietly raises the bar. La Palombe is one of those places. Tucked away on a calm street, this restaurant blends French culinary tradition with a polished, contemporary touch, ALC style. The reason I give this place a visit is down to the head chef here, Jake Leach, who was head chef at my beloved fine dining restaurant Ledbury and the greatest food-led pub in London aka The Harwood Arms. He alone warrants a visit, as I have eaten some amazing meals over the years at those sites.

Osteria Angelina

 Fusion fun but far from perfect


Sicilian Red Prawns, Tentsuyu & Crispy Rice


Stepping into Osteria Angelina feels like entering a sleek warehouse-loft that has been tenderly reworked as a high-end “osteria” on the edge of the City and Shoreditch. On the plate, the menu at Osteria Angelina unabashedly brings together Italian traditions and Japanese technique: “itameshi” fusion. I have visited once already, and I felt the quality warranted a return.

Legado

Regional Spanish food in the City


Skate Wing Tortilla, Mojo Verde


Legado in Shoreditch is a brand new  Spanish restaurant from chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho, who already has a Michelin-starred outlet, Sabor in central London. What makes Legado truly compelling is its menu: a journey through lesser-known and regionally specific Spanish flavours and techniques, which delights both the Spanish food aficionado and the curious Londoner. There’s a sense that Barragán Mohacho has taken what she learned in her years at Barrafina and Sabor, and aimed here not simply for repetition but expansion: of scale, of repertoire, of ambition.

Atla

 Open fire Spanish concept 


Mushroom Fideos


Entering ALTA on Kingly Court in Soho is less about stepping into a typical Spanish-restaurant façade and more akin to being welcomed into a ritual of fire and flavour. The space revolves around a glowing hearth—an open wood-fire grill, a Josper oven, embers and coals at the heart of the kitchen. Alta isn’t about quick tapas or cliched Spanish-mood décor. The kitchen’s ambition is clear: take the frameworks of Northern Spanish cooking—escabeches, grill, seafood from the Cantabrian/Bay of Biscay region, Basque influences—and reinterpret them with British-sourced produce.

Ibai

Daily special

 

Roasted scallops with paprika

This is my 14th visit, Ibai sits on a quiet street near St Paul’s and carries itself with a kind of calm confidence that you notice the moment you walk through the door. The dining room is compact but thoughtfully arranged, with a warehouse vibe, packed with high-energy tones and soft lighting. If you have been a few times like me, you really should start exploring its daily special offering, as there are some very special dishes on there, ranging from small pintxos-sized dishes to mains.