Brat

OG fire temple of London 

Grilled Bread with Anchovy

Located in Shoreditch, Brat is a Basque-inspired grillhouse reimagined in East London, anchored around the fire that sits at its heart. That fire, visible and omnipresent, sets the tone for the entire experience—it is Brat’s identity, its cooking philosophy, and its main act rolled into one. It transforms the space into something elemental, a reminder that good food is not just about ingredients but about what happens when you apply heat, time, and skill in the most exacting way. This is my 4th visit, and I found the food enjoyable yet a touch too expensive, especially since the decor is so casual with tables crammed so close together.

Grilled John Dorey

Cull Yaw Mutton

However, I have discovered that coming for a mid-week lunch and the vibe is much better, with sunlight flooding the room and not as busy, you get to relax without worrying about strangers sitting next to you. The famed turbot is the headline dish, but the Jon Dorey is just as good. It was roasted whole on the grill and presented like an offering at the table. It’s a striking sight: a glistening, browned, slightly prehistoric-looking fish that’s been kissed by smoke, its skin crackling and its flesh pearly, delicate, and laced with just enough fat to keep every bite rich but never heavy. The cull yaw mutton, grilled perfectly, carries that unmistakable accent of fire, a touch of char, and a smoky undertone, highlighting how special the ingredient itself.

Wood Roasted Duck with Liver

Almond cake

Service is brisk but friendly, with a kind of relaxed professionalism that makes you feel in good hands without being coddled. Prices are not cheap as I have mentioned, especially if you go in for the turbot and a few bottles of wine. The smoky scent stays with you when you leave, the memory of that perfectly cooked fish, those anchovies, that duck, lingering like a taste you don’t want to fade. I would say Brat is a great place, but to get the best value, skip the starters and head for the mains, as those meats or fish with open fire treatment are what make this place so special.

Food 4/5

What I paid: 
£85 per person 

Average cost without drinks and services:
£80

4 Redchurch St, Hackney, London E1 6JL

https://www.bratrestaurant.com/