Open fire Spanish concept
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| Mushroom Fideos |
Entering ALTA on Kingly Court in Soho is less about stepping into a typical Spanish-restaurant façade and more akin to being welcomed into a ritual of fire and flavour. The space revolves around a glowing hearth—an open wood-fire grill, a Josper oven, embers and coals at the heart of the kitchen. Alta isn’t about quick tapas or cliched Spanish-mood décor. The kitchen’s ambition is clear: take the frameworks of Northern Spanish cooking—escabeches, grill, seafood from the Cantabrian/Bay of Biscay region, Basque influences—and reinterpret them with British-sourced produce.
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| Clams and bread |
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| Squid, Lardo and Vizcaina Sauce |
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| Grilled pork chip with peach |
The menu, designed for sharing, begins with smaller plates, and I enjoyed them all. The squid noodles might feel predictable, but they had a soft hint of charred aroma, while the squid was cooked just right. The cockles were surprisingly good; the sweet and sour profile of the vinegar worked wonders with the umami profile of the shellfish. Sadly, my tubot fillet was overcooked, such a shame as I enjoyed the seasoning and taste. The larger dishes just don't seem to work as well, as my pork chop was also a bit chewy, and I suspect the quality of the pork isn't something to sing home about. I was glad the take on the iconic Basque burnt cheesecake (“La Viña” style) arrives with escabeche strawberries, keeping some acid and contrast against the richness.
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| Shrub Mustard Leaves |
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| Turbot Tranche |
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| Basque cheesecake |
ALTA in Soho is not perfect—but it achieves something rare: a clear identity executed well. For diners who want more than “Spanish dining” as a theme, who want flavour integrity, craft and atmosphere, this is a standout. The open-fire technique is not just theatre—it’s foundational. While the environment is lively, it sits between casual and fine dining—expect a bit of buzz, especially with the terrace and Kingly Court footfall. The concept is fun, and gives it a few more months of trading, it could be even better.
Food 3/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£70
Ground Floor, Kingly Ct, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW
https://alta-restaurant.com/
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