Friday, 5 December 2025

Atla

 Open fire Spanish concept 


Mushroom Fideos


Entering ALTA on Kingly Court in Soho is less about stepping into a typical Spanish-restaurant façade and more akin to being welcomed into a ritual of fire and flavour. The space revolves around a glowing hearth—an open wood-fire grill, a Josper oven, embers and coals at the heart of the kitchen. Alta isn’t about quick tapas or cliched Spanish-mood décor. The kitchen’s ambition is clear: take the frameworks of Northern Spanish cooking—escabeches, grill, seafood from the Cantabrian/Bay of Biscay region, Basque influences—and reinterpret them with British-sourced produce.

Clams and bread


Squid, Lardo and Vizcaina Sauce

Grilled pork chip with peach


The menu, designed for sharing, begins with smaller plates, and I enjoyed them all. The squid noodles might feel predictable, but they had a soft hint of charred aroma, while the squid was cooked just right. The cockles were surprisingly good; the sweet and sour profile of the vinegar worked wonders with the umami profile of the shellfish. Sadly, my tubot fillet was overcooked, such a shame as I enjoyed the seasoning and taste. The larger dishes just don't seem to work as well, as my pork chop was also a bit chewy, and I suspect the quality of the pork isn't something to sing home about. I was glad the take on the iconic Basque burnt cheesecake (“La Viña” style) arrives with escabeche strawberries, keeping some acid and contrast against the richness.

Shrub Mustard Leaves

Turbot Tranche

Basque cheesecake


ALTA in Soho is not perfect—but it achieves something rare: a clear identity executed well. For diners who want more than “Spanish dining” as a theme, who want flavour integrity, craft and atmosphere, this is a standout. The open-fire technique is not just theatre—it’s foundational. While the environment is lively, it sits between casual and fine dining—expect a bit of buzz, especially with the terrace and Kingly Court footfall. The concept is fun, and gives it a few more months of trading, it could be even better.


Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£70


Ground Floor, Kingly Ct, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW

https://alta-restaurant.com/

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