Luso

The new but not so new Portuguese in town

Clams, garlic, coriander

Luso is a brand new Portuguese restaurant that used to be the hit joint Lisboeta. After a total rebranding by the same people behind it, it has become more casual and simple. The décor carries forward much of the character from its predecessor: wood tones, soft lighting, prints of sea life, the sort of furnishings that feel refined without being overbearing. Under the new consultant executive chef, Leandro Carreira, the kitchen draws heavily on the Iberian Atlantic coastline, nodding to Portuguese coastal flavours.

Sautéed squid

British wagyu croquettes

Leitão - Segovian suckling pig

The house special oven-roasted suckling pig, or Leitão, with its glassy, crisp skin, is another highlight, served with accompaniments that balance richness with brightness. I really enjoyed it, but my problem is that for a dish that cost almost £40 but came with only 5 tiny finger-sized pieces of meat, it was just too much for me. The lobster rice was average at best, sadly. The lobster itself was wonderful, grilled to perfection with the right seasoning and texture, but the rice was so underwhelming, it lacked any seafood aroma or taste; the 2 key elements just didn't marry well, and that set me back £90.

Frango piri piri - grilled whole baby chicken

Lobster rice

Chocolate mousse, olive oil, salt

My main issue with Luso is that some dishes are overpriced. Luso sits in the £££ range easily if you factor in wine: mains typically hover in the higher tens or low thirties of pounds; speciality dishes such as whole fish or suckling pig will push you higher. Luso doesn’t simply tread the paths laid down by Lisboeta—it builds toward tradition, and lets good quality ingredients shine, giving Londoners a new Portuguese voice that is both rooted and evolving. While far from perfect, it is early days, so I think some adjustments to the menu (price and dish size) and execution could only make this place even better in the future.

Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£70


30 Charlotte St., London W1T 2NG

https://luso.restaurant/