Saturday 15 August 2020

Le Gavroche

Classic fine dining temple


Seared Scallop, Fresh Peas, Parma Ham & Kampot Pepper Foam

Lockdown has been a nightmare for me, suddenly, going out to a restaurant is mission impossible for more than 3 months. As someone who treats dining out as a hobby, it was a hard time indeed. At the start of July, restaurants started to reopening but there were many that shut down for good. At the high end, Michelin starred Greenhouse, The Ledbury, Texture, and Umu are no more, this is painful especially I rate Greenhouse and The Ledbury as the finest restaurants in the capital. I returned to Le Gavroche as a celebration of getting to eat out again and I wonder how many more restaurants might not be around this time next year with the second wave of COVID 19 is just a matter of when. At Le Gavroche, there were fewer tables with some plastic screen installed for social distancing reason, with all staff wearing a mask.

Canapes
Cheese Souffle Cooked on Double Cream

Butter Roasted Turbot, Confit Courgette, Tapenade & Tomato Coulis
Fregola, Crispy Chicken Neck & Skin, Broad Beans & Truffle

For my 4th visit, I opted for the full-on treatment with Menu Exceptionnel, Le Gavroche's tasting menu is somewhat legendary, and it always started off with the double cream cheese souffle which was like an umami smack in the face, but somehow not overly rich. The best dish of the evening was the roasted turbot which was cooked and seasoned masterfully, it was simple to the eye but loaded with the taste of summer. I enjoyed the simple tomato and courgette element which offered freshness and sweetness, it was a fine quality, summer fish dish. The main of lamb rack was another stunning dish, very tender and cooked to the perfect level. The sweetbread had a nice crispy edge and together with classic mint sauce element, it was a traditional flavour combination at its best.

Roast Herdwick Lamb, Sweetbread, Mint Condiment & Lamb Jus
Selection of French & British Farmhouse Cheeses
Cheese up
Strawberry & White Chocolate Eclair, Vanilla & Lime Sorbet

It was good to be back at Le Gavroche, there might be fewer tables, but the staff was still as professional and friendly as before. The cooking was still top-notch and the restaurant is truly a rare venue that still delivers classic French fine dining, so hard to find these days in London. Besides the food and service, the decor is somewhat vintage with a really old school club vibe. Le Gavroche has it all, class, tradition, great cooking, and charming staff, I hope COVID 19 won't impact it too much and will be around for as long as possible, as simply put, London needs it.



Food 4.5/5

Chef patron: 

Michel Roux Jr

Average cost without drinks and services:

£76 lunch menu
£178 tasting menu

Le Gavroche, 43 Upper Brook Street

London W1K 7QR

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